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Much Ado About Shampoo
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naanis naturals
naanis naturals is a hand-crafted, natural and organic beauty care line. Articles from http://naani.com are reprinted with permission and featured on FGK. Order select naani's naturals products from http://shopgrandmaskitchen.com  
By naanis naturals
Published on 09/23/2007
 
We've been receiving a lot of questions from the naaniFAM about which shampoo variety they should select.  Choosing a shampoo is mainly a decision based on personal preference as most of us go for aroma rather than content.

Over-The Counter or Sulfate Shampoos
Most people don't realize that there's very little difference between over-the-counter shampoos, laundry detergent, dishwashing soap, body wash, car wash, floor cleaners etc.  Seriously, go get a bottle of a variety of foaming cleansers and you'll find that most all contain the same primary cleansing agents known as Laureth/Lauryl Sulfates.   The concentration of these agents as well as the addition of other ingredients (you won't find Panthenol (a protein) in floor cleaner for example but you will find it in shampoos) determine the product's end usage.  So what does this mean?

It means that manufacturing companies are getting rich off of the same basic formula.  But more importantly it means that many of the problems that we have with our hair and skin are attributed to sulfates.  After all, an ingredient that strong enough to cleanse your tub, may not be what you'd ideally choose for use on your hair and body.  But this doesn't mean that all sulfates are bad.  Well they technically are but some are worse than others.

Look for sodium laureth sulfates.  They're effective cleansers and are considered "mild" in comparison to other chemical sulfates.  Finding an over the counter shampoo that contains sodium laureth sulfate is like looking for a needle in a haystack.  You could spend hours in Walmart before you find one and to my knowledge, there are currently only two on the market.  And believe it or not, the two that are available aren't even manufactured specifically for curly/coily hair types AND one of them actually ranked number 1 in a Consumer Reports study of shampoos. 

I'm sure you're wondering why I won't tell you the name of the shampoos.  DUH!, we're a commercial entity and would prefer that you order naani's naturals products.  In addition, sodium laureth sulfates shampoos are a third-tier option...they're not the best choices.  But I'm not sure if I fully explained why they're ranked number 3...

In laymen's terms, lauryl sulfates (most over-the-counter [OTC] shampoos) strip hair of oils...natural ones and those manually applied.  OTC shampoos remove the elements that cause build-up but they also remove those things that keep our hair healthy, protect it from damage and breakage and ultimately that cause it to grow. 

Ironically, this stripping of oils may not be a problem if your hair is particularly oily or naturally straight and as a result, the problems associated with OTC shampoos tend to go unnoticed amongst people with certain hair types and racial backgrounds.  So for example, many people will naturally straight hair distribute hairs' natural oil (sebum) fairly readily so their hair can appear to be oily within 2 days of shampooing.  Thus a shampoo that strips your hair will technically damage it but before the damage can take hold, your hair and scalp have already reproduced a new protective coating.

picture of woman with african hairAfrican hair types on the other hand do not readily distribute sebum.  In fact, post shampoo we have to put oils BACK on our hair in the form of moisturizers, greases, hair sheens, etc...   Ask any woman of African descent with chemically treated hair when her hair has the most body and looks its best.  It's generally 7-10 days after shampoo.  Meaning, our hair "holds a curl" better when it's slightly dirty (or has built up a sufficient amount of oil such that it's not heavy or smelly and is protected). 

So where using OTC Shampoos may go unnoticed on those with straight hair, those with African/curly/coily/dry hair have to ask themselves a question.  Why would you use a shampoo that strips your hair to it's bare bones?  Wouldn't it be better to use a product that leaves your hair hygenically and maintains your moisture/oil balance rather than stripping it?

If you must choose an OTC shampoo, laureth sulfates are the way to go but a better alternative...

For more information on proper hair care and for a salon quality products for all hair types, textures and ethnicities, visit http://www.naani.com.

"Natural" or Sulfate-Free Shampoos
How natural is your "natural" shampoo?  Many OTC natural shampoos aren't natural at all.  This is why it's important to read labels.  Unless your vegan or a naturalist, you probably don't care if your shampoo contains one or two chemical ingredients, but overall, be sure to understand the claims made by manufacturers.

The main thing you're looking for in a "natural" shampoo is that it doesn't contain sulfates, DEA, color and in extreme chemical sensitivity cases, fragrance.  Some people have VERY sensitive skin so they prefer products that don't add any fragrances to their products, but for those of us who like aromatherapy, the addition of fragrance and/or essentials to a product formulation is a must.

picture of womanA lot of "natural" shampoos fall short of their claims, but so do most products...chemical based or not.   In our research, we've found very few varieties that are effective and great at cleansing all hair types, but they do exist *hint hint*

It's important that in buying any product that you read your labels and not fall too hard for the claims made by the manufacturers.  Just because a product is "natural," doesn't mean it's better for your hair.  There are reasons why you may want to buy a natural shampoo that are pretty simple to understand.

The main upside of natural shampoos is that they contain no sulfates so they don't strip your hair of oils in the same manner as do chemicals.  A good natural shampoo will gently cleanse your hair and effectively remove product build-up, dirt and whatever else has accumulated on your mane.  At the same time the absence of sulfates will help to insure that there's no unnecessary drying which can lead to breakage.

Natural or Sulfate-Free shampoos are therefore best for clients who have dry, coily, curly hair.  These types of shampoos will leave your hair moisturized and reduce the need for the application of products post-shampoo.  For example, most women of African descent who switch to No-Sulfates find that they grease their scalps less and need fewer applications of oils and moisturizers.  Reason being, you don't have to replace what your shampoo hasn't stripped away.

Besides being gentle and more moisturizing, Sulfate-Free shampoos differ from OTC's in that they tend to lather/foam less.  Foam is an additive.  In the last section you learned that your dish detergent has the same main ingredients as your body wash.  Have you ever noticed then that your dish detergent tends to foam a lot, your body wash foams a little, but the dish liquid that you use in your dishwasher and your laundry detergent don't foam at all?  Reason being, in some cases you want foam...it makes you think it's doing more than it is.  In other cases, tons of foam would be a nuissance (imagine the foam pouring out of your dish washer or washing machine...not good).

Thus when using Sulfate-Free shampoos be prepared for less foam.  Extra-foam doesn't mean extra cleansing so using more of the product isn't go to help, it just means you're wasting money.  I'd suggest diluting your Sulfate-Free shampoo in 1:1 ratios until you get used to dealing with them.  Or, do you first shampoo with an alternate product (the first shampoo is usually hard to get going) and your second shampoo with the No-Sulfates.  That way you will see sufficient lather and won't over-use the product.

naani's naturals has an excellent line of Sulfate-Free shampoos that are available in a variety of aromatherapy blends.  For more information on these and other Salon & Spa quality products, visit naani online!

Castile Shampoo
Castile generally means any soap made with olive oil and in some cases coconut.  Natural castile does not contain foam boosters or chemical additives.  True, "natural" castile is free of artificial colors, fragrances, preservatives, animal products, their byproducts, and animal testing.  

Castile has traditionally been used throughout history as a cleansing agent.  After all, our great-great grandparents didn't use sulfates and bunch of other stuff most of us can hardly pronounce.  They often manufactured their own lye or plant based (castile) soaps.

What makes castile great is that it's ultra-mild.  Where I do not recommend it for use on baby's skin, it's terrific for teens and adults who have chemical sensitivity.  Unfortunately, there are companies that manufacturer concentrated castile and market these products as "catch-all"s with hundreds of uses.  Using such a product would be no different than using an over-the-counter sulfate.  If it can clean your grout, why are you using it on your hair?

Look for castiles that are specifically manufactured for use on hair.  You will find that these alkaline products will naturall soften even the hardest, driest hair.  Castiles should always be followed with a quality conditioner or herbal vinegar rinse to help restore your hair's natural PH. 

naani's naturals currently offers USDA Certified Organic Castile Shampoo and other salon quality products for all hair types, textures and ethnicities, visit naani online.