A naaniFAM Member Wrote...
"Hi, i have very curly hair and i got dreadlock 3 months ago by backcombing and using ropes. However, I didn't know much about dreads by then and was pessimistic about the fact that my i kind of looked like a caveman at first.

Therefore after 3 weeks I put wax on my hair. It helped initially and made the hair look a lot neater, however I later realized that the movement of my hair was prevented as a result of the wax. New dreads didn't get formed, neither did my dreads become tighter. It rather helped to keep the hair together, just like jelly helps keep your hair stable.

I'm very regretful that i used wax, especially since I didn't need wax at all. I tried using soaking my hair in hot water. It helped a little bit, but still my hair is quite immovable. Because the parts of the hair except the roots have wax on them.

When I backcomb or twist the hair from the roots, dreads don't get formed easily in the roots because the it's hard to accumulate hair towards the roots. I'm wondeirng if you can suggest a good way to get rid of all the wax so that I can continue to grow my natural dreads. Or is the situation very pessimistic (the only solution is to cut the parts of my hair that have wax on them?)" -- thanks, dreadistan - New York

Dreadlocks Product Build-Up
More and more I beginning to realize that much of the build-up experienced by people with dreadlocks has little to do with the actual products they use but rather, the way in which they use them.

How much product do you put on your dreadlocks after and in-between shampoos?  Whether it be a butter, a pomade, a gel, jelly or oil, many people have a tendency to over-applicate.  The truth is, it doesn't matter how "light" of a product you're using if you're over-using it.  That'd be like eating a box of low-fat cookies and wondering a week later why your jeans don't fit.

The other, and more pervasive cause of build-up, is improper rinsing.  There are so many of us who shampoo our hair dreadlocks effectively but do a poor and inadequate job at rinsing.  What's the point of the shampoo loosening up the dirt and oil if you're not going to rinse it away?  In the end, not only will the dirt and oil remain but the shampoo will be in there too.

In this section, I want to give you some really simple techniques to insure that you are mimizing build-up and if you've already fallen victim to it, ways in which you can effectively remove it.

Dilute your Shampoo
I'm gonna let you in on a little secret.  Although castile and no-sulfate shampoos maybe a little more expensive, they can be diluted without negatively effecting the cleansing properties of the product.

Every time I shampoo my locks or that of a client, I generally dilute naani's naturals Sulfate Free Shampoos 2:1 (2 parts shampoo, 2 part distilled water or less depending on how thick the client's hair is) and the Castiles 1:1 (sometimes 2:1 depending on the length of hair...for longer hair I like thinner shampoos).  What this means is, if I purchase an 8oz bottle of castile shampoo, I end up with 16oz of product.  So instead of paying 10 bucks per bottle, I really only paid 5...the same amount I'd pay for a quality over-the-counter shampoo.

Far too many of us hop in the shower, dump the shampoo on our locks and move them around until our whole head lathers up.  What happens if there's not enough lather?  Well we turn right around, dump some more shampoo until we get a nice foam going.

The problem with doing this is that although you're distributing the foam, the majority of the gel-like shampoo is still concentrated at the dump site.  When you rinse, you may rinse thoroughly but the dump site remains saturated.

Thus by diluting your shampoo, you avoid dumping.  Instead of having a gel-like consistency, your shampoo is now watery and will distribute itself more readily.

When you dilute your shampoo, do so in small increments and in a seperate bottle.  Start with 2 ounces of shampoo and dilute it based on the suggested ratios above.  By preparing your shampoo mixture before each session, you can reduce build-up and save money.


I'm not a big fan of shampooing dreadlocks in the shower.  The longer your dreadlocks, the more attention they need.

Simply put, it may take a few minutes to bathe a toddler (there's less surface area) but if you, as an adult, wash your body in the same amount of time it takes to wash a babe...eeeeeeeeeeeeewhew!

Just because it smells clean don't make it clean.  By washing too quickly, you're basically doing a "cologne cover-up."  Your hair takes on the smell of ths shampoo but the dirt and filth remain.

For most people I urge them to shampoo their locks over the tub, basin or sink.  During each lather I suggest that they sit down in their most comfortable chair and wash their locks while watching tv or listening to music.  Rinse and repeat.  Following this procedure insures that you've truly washed each and every lock from root to tip.


Rinse Properly
Your final rinse is the most important.  Again, this is where people encounter build-up issues.

Unless the product you're using is extremely heavy and/or you overapplicate, most products will be loosened during the shampooing process.  Thus with proper rinsing, you should be able to effectively rid yourself of most residue.

If you ignored the above advice regarding shampooing, at least take the time to RINSE your locks separately over the tub or sink.  Since the faucet in your tub is larger and generally has a stronger stream, you may prefer this option.

When you rinse, mentally divide your hair into four sections.  Concentrate the water stream on each individual section before moving to the next.  Squeeze and manipulate the hair in each section to insure that the water is reaching each lock, root to tip.

Depending on your hair length, allow ample time for your final rinse.  The amount of time you allow for rinsing is really up to you.  If you wish to conserve water, simply wash your hair every 3 weeks as opposed to every 2.  Don't skimp on a proper shampoo in the short-run because all it will do is lead to long term problems...build-up.


Face the Facts
Lint, Dirt, Debris and Dandruff are inevitable.  Unlike loose hair, you can't use a comb or brush to remove the build-up of these substances.

One of my friends swore her locks were clean.  Her locks are beautiful and approximately 2.5 years old.  She uses only oil to twist and felt the need to argue with me over the idea that locks can not be 100% clean.

So I made bet with her.  If she would cut about 1-2 inches off the tip of one of her locks and we examined and found nothing, I'd give her 50 bucks.  If we did find something, she'd have to apologize and realize that the Queen D...is me!

She agreed and sho'nuff when we ripped that puppy open there was build-up inside her locks.  She freaked.  I got my apology and all is well in naani land.

The facts are, everytime you twist, you may be unknowing twisting lint into your locks.  The facts are, when you scratch your head, some of that dandruff will never find its way to floor or down the drain.

Shampoo doesn't dissolve lint and although it may bind with dirt/dandruff, it may not easily find itself out of mature dreadlocks.

This doesn't make your hair dirty, or filthy.  For the most part, you'll be hard pressed to find dirt in some areas of our locks.

What it does mean is that to some degree, build-up is natural.  It's no different than the realization that we all have natural yeast that lives on our skin or that bacteria live and thrive inside our bodies or that penicillin, a common antibiotic, is derived from molds....ok, am I grossing you out now?

Removing Excessive Build-Up
Antiseptics and alcohol treatments, hot water baths and vinegar rinses.  These are a number of ways in which you can loosen up product build-up inside your locks.  naani's naturals Aromatherapy Witch Hazel or All-Purpose Astringents and Essentially Herbal Vinegar Rinses are available online.  The former relies on an alcohol base to remove oils and loosen debris, the latter uses the traditional cleansing and deodorizing properties of apple cider vinegar, organic herbs and 100% pure essential oils.

The extreme solution would be to use a dish detergent like Dawn.  Dawn is typically what's used to clean wild-life that are effected by oil spills (tar).  But more typically, a clarifying shampoo should do the trick.

What are Clarifying Shampoos?
The quick and easy answer is that clarifiers work to deep-clean and remove buildup resulting from styling products, mineral deposits from hard water and environmental factors (smog, smoke, dust, etc).

Clarifying shampoos contain heavy-duty surfactants-the detergents used to cleanse the hair and remove oils.  Some also contain natural, acidic ingredients like vinegar or lemon to further cut through build-up that generally leaves your hair feeling heavy and looking dull.

Many professionals suggest using a clarifier before undergoing a chemical procedure (i.e. relaxing or coloring) because doing so helps remove deposits enabling the treatment to work more evenly and effectively.

How Often do You Use a Clarifying Shampoo?
Generally this depends on your product usage.  If you're the type who regularly uses lots of styling aids-pomades, oils, hair sprays and/or gels, you will probably have to use the clarifier more frequently than others.

Because clarifying shampoos are so intense, they can also leave the hair and scalp feeling dry and brittle.  This is why they shouldn't be used as a regular shampoo.

I suggest using the clarifier in one shampoo and a moisturizing shampoo for your final washing.  Follow it with a good conditioner and you will minimize any negative results associated with the clarifier.

For those with dreadlocks, how often you use the clarifier will generally depend on how often you wash your hair.  If you're the type who goes 3+ weeks in-between shampoos, the use of a clarifier during at least one shampoo will help strip any build-up that has resulted in that time frame.  Again, follow the clarifier up with a moisturizing shampoo and a conditioning treatment to avoid dryness.

For those with straight/natural hair, you can generally use a clarifier less frequently.  Unless you're using a lot of product in-between shampoos, generally those with African hair types can use a clarifier every 3-4 shampoos, if not more.  There's really no set time frame.  Some folks can go 6 months before needing the use of a clarifier so use your discretion.  It is however a good idea to use a clarifier the week or so before you relax/color your hair.


Natural Remedies
Our hair is naturally acidic.  Apple-cider vinegar and citrus essentials are naturally acidic (although more acidic than hair).  Doing an rinse with these will serve as a natural alternative to clarifying shampoos.  Keep in mind however that they are also drying so don't overdo it.  Once a week will sufficiently remove any build-up that has accumulated.

Rotating Shampoos & Conditioners
To avoid overall build-up, the easiest thing to do is to rotate your shampoos and conditioners.  Most professionals suggest rotating your products every 4-6 months.  By doing so, you will get the best results from the product and will avoid having to undergo a product-switch every time you think the products lose their effectiveness.

So, it's best to have 2 or 3 product lines that you know will work well with your hair and rotating them every few months to keep your hair looking its best.