What Hair Type and Texture do You Have? Straight, Wavy, Curly, Kinky or Nappy?
http://fromgrandmaskitchen.com/Natural-Hair-Beauty/articles/3881/1/What-Hair-Type-and-Texture-do-You-Have-Straight-Wavy-Curly-Kinky-or-Nappy/Page1.html
naanis naturals
naanis naturals is a hand-crafted, natural and organic beauty care line. Articles from http://naani.com are reprinted with permission and featured on FGK. Order select naani's naturals products from http://shopgrandmaskitchen.com
By naanis naturals
Published on 03/6/2009
How to determine how your type and texture using this new, unbiased and easy to use system.
This article was published earlier this year by naani's naturals. I'm trying to get her to post more while she recoops but it doesn't help when women on other forums/boards spread false information.
If you've been told that this is an old article, go back to the board where you read the comment and politely tell the person who said it that she needs to read before she speaks.
The use of photos from the original LOIS article has helped me and people like me who are familiar with the older systems because I realized it expands my understanding not turn it on its head.
Thank you kindly if you keep an open mind and we hope you enjoy this informative article.
-- !hot!grannie
Although Mr. Walker's system sparked controversy due to his use of the word "Kinky" to denote African or Black hair, it deserves our applause for encouraging a better understanding of one's hair and in a way, it has served as a call to action to product manufacturers as over the years, consumers, particularly those with Curly, Kinky and Nappy hair types, are no longer accepting traditional products and suggestions regarding hair care as the norm.
For these women brushing one's hair 100 times per night or shampooing daily are no longer an ideal to strive for because as the naani hair typing system will show you, what's best for one hair type may be detrimental to another. In short, hair typing should not be regarded as divisive but rather a system of empowerment and understanding for those of us whose needs have long been avoided and ignored by the hair care industry.
Before we begin, let's briefly discuss the results.
If you have "Curly Hair," it's not just curly. It can be Curly(3) overall AND these curls can be Loose(A) AND your individual hair strands can be Medium in size (M) while your hair as a whole maybe Normal (N). When we put this type together we get a distinct hair type classification - 3AMN or - Curly, Loose, Medium, Normal.
This article will explain how to ascertain your Hair Typing number and once you know this number, we will discuss in future articles how to go about maximizing your hair's beauty, health and style.
Please note that where you see an S or O in bold and underlined, it means that the letter is capitalized. So for example, a (capital) S means that the curls are easily visible (large) and elongated. A (lowercase) s in regular text means that the curls may require closer inspection and are more compact.
So let's begin...
THE FIVE HAIR TYPES:
Type 1 - Straight Hair
Type 2 - Wavy Hair
Type 3 - Curly Hair
Type 4 - Kinky Hair
Type 5 - Nappy Hair
There are five basic types and each type is denoted by a number. This method caused much controversy as many assumed that the lower the number (1), inherently implied that type 1 was better than type 4 (we are instituting a type 5). The reality however is that this typing system is not hierarchical with respect to better or best. It is however hierarchical in terms of degree of curl and curl behavior. In other words, the lower the number the less curly your hair. If curly is bad, then yeah, being designated a type 5 sucks for you.
Ruth Negga is pictured above. Ms. Negga has 3C Curly Hair Type. Wet or dry, Ms. Negga's S-curls are discernible (clearly visible). Keep in mind, the differentiation between Type 3 Curly and Type 4 Kinky is in curl discernment. People who are Type 4 require product to accentuate and define curls. People who are Type 3 may use product to reduce frizz and add definition to their curls but product is not required.
Type 3C Curly Hair Recap
S/s-curls that are tighter and more compact like corkscrews with a discernible pattern (the individual curl strands work in unison and are visible).
KINKY HAIR DEGREES
Kinky hair types, like Wavy, suffer from middle child syndrome. Where Wavy is stuck between Straight and Curly Types, Kinky is stuck between Curly and Nappy.
Kinky hair requires product for curl definition. Kinky hair clearly has curls, they do not however work in tandem without assistance of product or hair styling (two-strand twists, coils, double strands, etc...)
The Case of Two Strands
A woman with Curly or Kinky hair will notice that when in two-strands, the hair draws onto itself (curls and behaves like a corkscrew). With curly hair, their will be shrinkage but the two-strands will retain their elongated shape. However when kinky hair is in two-strands, it's as if your hair has actually lost several inches as the two-strand structure encourages kinky hair's curls to work together. When the curls work together, the "corkscrew"/springy nature of kinky hair emerges.
Like Curly Hair, Kinky Hair is very responsive to humidity. This hair type has difficulty holding a press for example. In the presence of humidity, it will "grow"/poof/frizz so flat-ironing often results in a temporary, and easily reversible straight hair styles. In humid weather, flat-ironed kinky hair will have difficulty holding a curl and will naturally want to revert back to its natural state. Thus hot combing produces better results for this hair type and when doing so, heavier pomades and higher heat settings are best when trying to maintain straight hair styles. In other words, the more stuff (coating) on your recently straightened hair, the greater barrier there is between your hair and humidity.
Another example of Kinky hair's humidity susceptibility is seen when the hair is styled in an Afro. Where Nappy hair will maintain and retain its compact shape, Curly hair will have clearly visible, but highly frizzy S/s-curls, Kinky hair (like all hair actually), elongates in humid weather (hair is longer in humid climates, shorter in dry climates) and looks more like cotton candy. A Kinky Afro in humid weather is therefore more collapsible. Its wispy/cotton-candy-like appearance and feel will cause it to depress more readily.
Kinky Hair Textures
I'm citing the above photos from the original L.O.I.S. system for consistency and to help you see how the naani system and L.O.I.S. correlate.
Type 4A is...
Dense, spongy, fluffy.
Short-medium length s-curls that are more compact like corkscrews.
Little-medium discernible pattern when dry (the individual curl strands work individually) without the addition of product. On shorter lengths, the pattern is more discernible.
With the addition of product, 4A can mimic 3C Curly Hair.
4A Kinky hair requires a greater deal of product than curly hair to accentuate and define curls.
Type 4B
Dense, cottony-spongy, fluffy.
Short length s-curls that are more compact like corkscrews.
Little discernible pattern when dry (the individual curl strands work individually) without the addition of product. On shorter lengths, the pattern is more discernible.
With the addition of product, 4B mimics 3C Curly/4A (with product) Kinky Hair.
4B Kinky hair requires a greater deal of product than curly hair to accentuate and define curls. The differentiation between it and 4A is the way the curls behave once the product is added.
With 4A, once product is added, the hair will form fewer uniform s-curl sets. Look at the 4A picture and notice how the curls uniformly work their way from root to tip. You could glide your hand over 4A hair with product and the waves/curls would ebb and flow in the same relative pattern.
With 4B, the s-curls have uniform sets but there are far more of them (sets). In the case of 4B, the curls are still doing their own thing but a greater number of the curls strands are working together allowing the hair to form a multitude of curly tendrils/corkscrews that give the hair a afri-curly appearance.
NAPPY HAIR DEGREES
Nappy Hair is a little bit more difficult to depict via photos. Of all hair types, category 5 is largely dependent upon degrees...the texture, the feel of the hair.
In terms of appearance, Nappy Hair differentiates itself from Curly and Kinky hair in one simple way, Nappy hair's curl pattern is not easily discernible (not clearly visible). The curls exist, they just do not work in tandem.
When product is applied to Nappy hair to differentiate and accentuate curls, you may see a little definition but in general, once the product dries, Nappy hair may (or may not) be able to achieve definition similar to Type 4B-without product.
Nappy Hair does not have a natural shine. If there is no additional heat, artificial shine via hair products does little to increase Nappy Hair's sheen.
Somewhat coarse, dense, very short z-curls that are the most compact, fall in odd, zigzag patterns and no discernible pattern (the individual curl strands work individually).
Cotton-like, slightly rough, fine hair, very short z-curls that are the most compact, fall in odd, zigzag patterns and no discernible pattern (the curls individual curl strands individually).
This type is more likely to have far more circular coils at the nape and temples.
WHAT IS YOUR TYPE? WRITE IT DOWN.
If you're still unsure of your hair's type, here's a simple review...
Type 1 - Straight: No Curls. No Visible Curl Pattern.
Type 2 - Wavy: Few-Moderate Waves. Low-Moderate Visibility with or without product. Loose Wave Pattern.
Type 3 - Curly: Moderate-High Curls. High Visibility with or without product. Loose-Compact Curl Pattern.
Type 4 - Kinky: Moderate-High Curls. Moderate-High Visibility with product. Compact Curl Pattern.
Type 5 - Nappy: Moderate to High Curls/Coils. No-Low Visibility with or without product. Dense and Compact Curl Pattern.
Two or More Degrees?
In some cases, you may actually have two or more types.
Usually, this occurs at the nape of the neck, at the crown or near the temple area.
In such cases, you would designate your hair based on the isolated area. In the photo on the right, JetCityGirl's hair is Type 3c (based on the naani system) at the neck-line area and appears to be Type 4b elsewhere. So 4b-3c is her type with the predominant type appearing first.
Straight Hair, Wavy ad Some Curly Photos Courtesy of Ben Goldstein/Studio D; Marie Claire
How to determine how your type and texture using this new, unbiased and easy to use system. This is a new article
NOTE TO READERS:
This is a new article
This is a new article
This article was published earlier this year by naani's naturals. I'm trying to get her to post more while she recoops but it doesn't help when women on other forums/boards spread false information.
If you've been told that this is an old article, go back to the board where you read the comment and politely tell the person who said it that she needs to read before she speaks.
The use of photos from the original LOIS article has helped me and people like me who are familiar with the older systems because I realized it expands my understanding not turn it on its head.
Thank you kindly if you keep an open mind and we hope you enjoy this informative article.
-- !hot!grannie
Understanding the five multi-ethnic hair types and textures
BETTER THAN LOIS HAIR TYPING! Hair Typing Revised
Defining hair types and textures are a great way to help us determine which products and styling techniques work best for our hair. Traditionally there have been four main types of hair: Straight, Wavy, Curly and Kinky. This article will add a fifth category but before we proceed, I want to acknowledge that there are some who take offense to the words "Kinky" and "Nappy." And there are still others who simply don't understand the meaning behind these terms.
Years ago an Afri-Indie friend in England asked me what "nappy" meant because to her, "nappy" refers to a baby's diaper. So yeah folk, "nappy" can mean a "catcher of baby poo and wee" in addition to its negative associations with African/natural Black hair. You have to wonder, does this word ever get a break?
Where I could opt to use alternate words in this typology, I don't wanna. "Kinky" and "Nappy" can be what you make them and until I happen to think of better words to describe what this typing system is all about (degree of curl), I leave it to you to keep your outrage and offense in check.
Within each general hair type category, we have a whole bunch of ways to classify our hair texture and thickness. What has always bothered me is that despite the fact that there are varying systems, each presuming to improve upon the other, they are all subjective and some of them make absolutely no sense. It's been 10 years and I still don't know what LOIS daughter I am.
Aside from the confusion, many of the revised systems are inherently biased. Why is it that virtually all biracial people are regarded as Type 3 (Curly), but individuals of African descent, whose hair may mimic that of Curly hair, are automatically designated as type 4 (Kinky)?
Take CaribMix's above photo as the primary example. According to the LOIS/Walker System, she has been classified as 4a-s. Her typing makes sense except, what happens when someone of Caucasian descent, with no clear African ancestry, has a similar hair texture? Would that person by default be Type 3? Why? Is it because White folks by default can't have "Kinky" hair?
Well consider this photo of Bob Ross (may he rest in piece) above right. You may remember Mr. Ross from PBS. He had a painting show on there for years, an amazingly cool voice and hippy spirit. He succumbed to cancer in the mid-90s and we use him to demonstrate that hair typing can transcend racial lines.
Granted, his hair may have been processed in some way but assuming it was not, I ask you, would Mr. Ross, who is White, be a 3a or 4a?
Or what about individuals who have wavy hair? Can an African-American woman be classified as a 2a or 3a? In the LOIS article reprinted with permission on this site, Wavezncurlz is a 4a-i or something like that. But why is she a 4-anything? Her hair is clearly curly or at the very least wavy. Who would say that she has "kinky" hair?
So I couldn't wrap my mind around the LOIS system. Maybe it was because the photos were so confusing. Maybe it's because for the life of me I couldn't figure out where I fit in. Or maybe it was in researching other articles regarding hair typing, the authors of these articles would most often cite photos of celebrities like Beyonce or Erykah Badu as having "curly/kinky" hair types. Since when does a weave or lace wig, no matter how well crafted, serve as an example of someone's natural hair?
In this article, I hope to eliminate the fluff, the racial bias and non-sensicalness of the hair typing system. I will attempt to refine some existing hair systems by improving and expanding upon them. I will use real examples of real people and to the best of my ability, assign them a category (based on a photo...again, subjective).
I will use Fia's Hair Typing System and LOIS as a foundation which is funny because they're actually an expansion/revision of the "original" hair typing system developed years earlier by Andre Walker (Oprah's Hair Stylist) in Andre Talks Hair.
Yeah I know, why would you need my system if I've already given you three existing ones? Reason being, mine is better :-P
It focuses on How much curl you got, The texture of your curls and How those curls behave, not what color you just happen to be.
Defining hair types and textures are a great way to help us determine which products and styling techniques work best for our hair. Traditionally there have been four main types of hair: Straight, Wavy, Curly and Kinky. This article will add a fifth category but before we proceed, I want to acknowledge that there are some who take offense to the words "Kinky" and "Nappy." And there are still others who simply don't understand the meaning behind these terms.
Years ago an Afri-Indie friend in England asked me what "nappy" meant because to her, "nappy" refers to a baby's diaper. So yeah folk, "nappy" can mean a "catcher of baby poo and wee" in addition to its negative associations with African/natural Black hair. You have to wonder, does this word ever get a break?
Where I could opt to use alternate words in this typology, I don't wanna. "Kinky" and "Nappy" can be what you make them and until I happen to think of better words to describe what this typing system is all about (degree of curl), I leave it to you to keep your outrage and offense in check.Within each general hair type category, we have a whole bunch of ways to classify our hair texture and thickness. What has always bothered me is that despite the fact that there are varying systems, each presuming to improve upon the other, they are all subjective and some of them make absolutely no sense. It's been 10 years and I still don't know what LOIS daughter I am.
Aside from the confusion, many of the revised systems are inherently biased. Why is it that virtually all biracial people are regarded as Type 3 (Curly), but individuals of African descent, whose hair may mimic that of Curly hair, are automatically designated as type 4 (Kinky)?
Take CaribMix's above photo as the primary example. According to the LOIS/Walker System, she has been classified as 4a-s. Her typing makes sense except, what happens when someone of Caucasian descent, with no clear African ancestry, has a similar hair texture? Would that person by default be Type 3? Why? Is it because White folks by default can't have "Kinky" hair?
Well consider this photo of Bob Ross (may he rest in piece) above right. You may remember Mr. Ross from PBS. He had a painting show on there for years, an amazingly cool voice and hippy spirit. He succumbed to cancer in the mid-90s and we use him to demonstrate that hair typing can transcend racial lines.
Granted, his hair may have been processed in some way but assuming it was not, I ask you, would Mr. Ross, who is White, be a 3a or 4a?
Or what about individuals who have wavy hair? Can an African-American woman be classified as a 2a or 3a? In the LOIS article reprinted with permission on this site, Wavezncurlz is a 4a-i or something like that. But why is she a 4-anything? Her hair is clearly curly or at the very least wavy. Who would say that she has "kinky" hair?
So I couldn't wrap my mind around the LOIS system. Maybe it was because the photos were so confusing. Maybe it's because for the life of me I couldn't figure out where I fit in. Or maybe it was in researching other articles regarding hair typing, the authors of these articles would most often cite photos of celebrities like Beyonce or Erykah Badu as having "curly/kinky" hair types. Since when does a weave or lace wig, no matter how well crafted, serve as an example of someone's natural hair?
|
|
I will use Fia's Hair Typing System and LOIS as a foundation which is funny because they're actually an expansion/revision of the "original" hair typing system developed years earlier by Andre Walker (Oprah's Hair Stylist) in Andre Talks Hair.
Yeah I know, why would you need my system if I've already given you three existing ones? Reason being, mine is better :-P
It focuses on How much curl you got, The texture of your curls and How those curls behave, not what color you just happen to be.
Walker's Hair Typing System & Beyond
|
|
For these women brushing one's hair 100 times per night or shampooing daily are no longer an ideal to strive for because as the naani hair typing system will show you, what's best for one hair type may be detrimental to another. In short, hair typing should not be regarded as divisive but rather a system of empowerment and understanding for those of us whose needs have long been avoided and ignored by the hair care industry.
Before we begin, let's briefly discuss the results.
If you have "Curly Hair," it's not just curly. It can be Curly(3) overall AND these curls can be Loose(A) AND your individual hair strands can be Medium in size (M) while your hair as a whole maybe Normal (N). When we put this type together we get a distinct hair type classification - 3AMN or - Curly, Loose, Medium, Normal.
This article will explain how to ascertain your Hair Typing number and once you know this number, we will discuss in future articles how to go about maximizing your hair's beauty, health and style.
Please note that where you see an S or O in bold and underlined, it means that the letter is capitalized. So for example, a (capital) S means that the curls are easily visible (large) and elongated. A (lowercase) s in regular text means that the curls may require closer inspection and are more compact.
So let's begin...
THE FIVE HAIR TYPES: Type 1 - Straight Hair
Type 2 - Wavy Hair
Type 3 - Curly Hair
Type 4 - Kinky Hair
Type 5 - Nappy Hair
There are five basic types and each type is denoted by a number. This method caused much controversy as many assumed that the lower the number (1), inherently implied that type 1 was better than type 4 (we are instituting a type 5). The reality however is that this typing system is not hierarchical with respect to better or best. It is however hierarchical in terms of degree of curl and curl behavior. In other words, the lower the number the less curly your hair. If curly is bad, then yeah, being designated a type 5 sucks for you.
Straight, Wavy or Curly?
Type 1 - Straight Hair
There is no discernible wave pattern.
Due to the lack of speed-bumps (curls/waves), hairs' natural oil (sebum) is able to work its way from root to tip more readily with straight hair than any other hair type. Straight hair therefore gets oilier quicker, usually needs more frequent shampooing than other hair types and has the potential to attain greater lengths.
Straight hair also appears to be shiniest of all hair types. Reason being, light best refracts (bounces) off of a flat surface. This doesn't mean that straight hair is "better." But truth is, we all like shiny things. Would you buy a brand new car that had a dull paint job? Of course you wouldn't. But you also would pay brand new car price for a shiny scooty poo (bucket, hoopdy, lemon, POS...). So listen to what I'm saying folk, who cares about the bling if the actual product is crap. If the hair in question is healthy and shiny or healthy and not shiny, what matters is it's healthy. Now to explain how light works with straight hair, consider this...
Imagine you're in a dark room with a flash light, a mirror and prism. What would happen if you pointed the flash light directly at the mirror? The light would bounce off the mirror's surface and reflect back onto the wall with little to no variations in the color of the light. In other words, it'd be like a spot-light on the wall.
This represents what happens with straight hair. When day or artificial light hits straight hair, it can more directly reflect back just as the mirror did because it represents a flat surface. This means straight hair, no matter what it's condition, will appear shinier. Again, shinier doesn't necessarily mean healthier...it's just the nature of how light works.
Now imagine you're in the same dark room and shined the flash light directly into a prism. The light would hit the varying points in the prism and reflect onto the wall in a scattered pattern with variations in color. For those that don't know what a prism is, think "disco ball."
The curlier your hair is, the more it behaves like a disco ball. Each bump/wave in your hair represents a point at which the light has to break its "concentration" and this causes it to reflect a different way or shoot in a different direction. So less shiny doesn't mean less healthy. You can have healthy hair and no shine. Again, it's just the nature of how light works.
Type 2 - Wavy Hair
There is a discernible wave pattern but the hair lacks curl.
The hair does not curl into rings or ringlets but there are some "bumps" or waves.
Wavy hair is generally coarser (thicker) than Type 1. It will also cling to the scalp in elongated, "S-shaped" waves rather than hang straight and flat.
Wavy hair has a lower degree of sheen when compared to straight hair but higher than types 3 or 4.
Type 3 - Curly Hair
There is a discernible curl pattern.
The hair will form more clearly defined elongated S-shapes or medium-short s-shapes.
The "S's" or "s's" will have tighter, more compact formations as the hair transitions from wet to dry.
In some cases, Curly Hair may take O-shapes. This is where the hair curls onto itself, like a pill-bug or armadillo.
Curly hair is more susceptible to frizziness and humidity.
Curly hair is best styled with fingers rather than combs.
Curly hair is best shampooed 2-3 times per week in most cases and/or no-poo'd (conditioned then rinsed).
The key distinction between curly hair and Types 4 and 5 is the degree to which Curly hair refracts light (or has the ability to shine) AND the discernability of the curl pattern.
Curly hair shines more readily than Type 4 and 5.
Curly hair has a discernible curl pattern. Curls exist with Type 4 and 5 but unlike curly and wavy hair, Type 4 and 5's individual hair strands do not work in tandem. In other words, each strand of hair is a curl, but doesn't always play nice with it's neighbors.
As we move forward, it's important that we differentiate between S-curls, s-curls and corkscrews. The S-shape, short or long is pictured above, left.
Uppercase S-curls are elongated. Imagine the picture on the left stretched out a little more.
Lowercase s-curls are short. Imagine the picture on the left as pictured on squished a little more.
Corkscrews are short and compact. Corkscrews are indicative of the picture on the right. They may resemble the picture (short) or they may be stretched out a little (long/elongated). Corkscrews however will always be tighter than S-curls.
As we move forward, ask yourself, are my curls more s-shaped or more like a corkscrew or spring? This will help you in the next section as you differentiate between Types 2, 3 and 4.
There is no discernible wave pattern.
Due to the lack of speed-bumps (curls/waves), hairs' natural oil (sebum) is able to work its way from root to tip more readily with straight hair than any other hair type. Straight hair therefore gets oilier quicker, usually needs more frequent shampooing than other hair types and has the potential to attain greater lengths.
Straight hair also appears to be shiniest of all hair types. Reason being, light best refracts (bounces) off of a flat surface. This doesn't mean that straight hair is "better." But truth is, we all like shiny things. Would you buy a brand new car that had a dull paint job? Of course you wouldn't. But you also would pay brand new car price for a shiny scooty poo (bucket, hoopdy, lemon, POS...). So listen to what I'm saying folk, who cares about the bling if the actual product is crap. If the hair in question is healthy and shiny or healthy and not shiny, what matters is it's healthy. Now to explain how light works with straight hair, consider this...
Imagine you're in a dark room with a flash light, a mirror and prism. What would happen if you pointed the flash light directly at the mirror? The light would bounce off the mirror's surface and reflect back onto the wall with little to no variations in the color of the light. In other words, it'd be like a spot-light on the wall.
This represents what happens with straight hair. When day or artificial light hits straight hair, it can more directly reflect back just as the mirror did because it represents a flat surface. This means straight hair, no matter what it's condition, will appear shinier. Again, shinier doesn't necessarily mean healthier...it's just the nature of how light works.
Now imagine you're in the same dark room and shined the flash light directly into a prism. The light would hit the varying points in the prism and reflect onto the wall in a scattered pattern with variations in color. For those that don't know what a prism is, think "disco ball."
The curlier your hair is, the more it behaves like a disco ball. Each bump/wave in your hair represents a point at which the light has to break its "concentration" and this causes it to reflect a different way or shoot in a different direction. So less shiny doesn't mean less healthy. You can have healthy hair and no shine. Again, it's just the nature of how light works.
Type 2 - Wavy Hair
There is a discernible wave pattern but the hair lacks curl.
The hair does not curl into rings or ringlets but there are some "bumps" or waves.
Wavy hair is generally coarser (thicker) than Type 1. It will also cling to the scalp in elongated, "S-shaped" waves rather than hang straight and flat.
Wavy hair has a lower degree of sheen when compared to straight hair but higher than types 3 or 4.
Type 3 - Curly Hair
There is a discernible curl pattern.
The hair will form more clearly defined elongated S-shapes or medium-short s-shapes.
The "S's" or "s's" will have tighter, more compact formations as the hair transitions from wet to dry.
In some cases, Curly Hair may take O-shapes. This is where the hair curls onto itself, like a pill-bug or armadillo.
Curly hair is more susceptible to frizziness and humidity.
Curly hair is best styled with fingers rather than combs.
Curly hair is best shampooed 2-3 times per week in most cases and/or no-poo'd (conditioned then rinsed).
The key distinction between curly hair and Types 4 and 5 is the degree to which Curly hair refracts light (or has the ability to shine) AND the discernability of the curl pattern.
Curly hair shines more readily than Type 4 and 5.
Curly hair has a discernible curl pattern. Curls exist with Type 4 and 5 but unlike curly and wavy hair, Type 4 and 5's individual hair strands do not work in tandem. In other words, each strand of hair is a curl, but doesn't always play nice with it's neighbors.
As we move forward, it's important that we differentiate between S-curls, s-curls and corkscrews. The S-shape, short or long is pictured above, left.
Uppercase S-curls are elongated. Imagine the picture on the left stretched out a little more.
Lowercase s-curls are short. Imagine the picture on the left as pictured on squished a little more.
Corkscrews are short and compact. Corkscrews are indicative of the picture on the right. They may resemble the picture (short) or they may be stretched out a little (long/elongated). Corkscrews however will always be tighter than S-curls.
As we move forward, ask yourself, are my curls more s-shaped or more like a corkscrew or spring? This will help you in the next section as you differentiate between Types 2, 3 and 4.
Kinky or Nappy Hair Type?
Type 4 - Kinky Hair and Type 5 - Nappy Hair
Kinky and Nappy hair have been a BEAST for me to describe because where I do not want to fall into the trap of classifying these hair types as "African," I do want to take into consideration the special needs of natural Black hair.
One of the troubles in expanding on the Kinky and Nappy hair types is that depending on heritage, whether you be African, African-American, Afri-Caribbean, Afri-German...Jewish or Unknown, your ethnic ancestral heritage may be varied and as a result, your hair typology will be varied as well. This is also a pretty good time to discuss the Type 3 or Type 4 Controversy.
Having reviewed many sources, it seems to me that some who have written articles regarding hair typing is that Type 3 is for Whites and Biracial individuals with at least one African parent. Type 4 was therefore relegated to anybody who ain't all of the above...in other words, "real" Black folk.
So what if both your parents are Black, but your hair is just like those in Type 3? Why then in most cases are you considered Type 4?
What also troubled me is that Type 4 lumps together Black folks no matter what their degree of curl and invariably resulted in a convoluted system known as LOIS that was designed for African hair typing specifically.
Where I applaude the efforts of L.O.I.S, (hand raised) "oooh oooh oooh, I got idea!"
Instead of having one HUGE category for anyone who is remotely African, why not continue to divide the various African hair types into separate categories based on...I dunno...their hair?!?! Yeah I know, GENIUS!
Type 4 - Kinky Hair
As with Curly hair, Kinky hair is also designated by an "s's" and "o's" but unlike Curly hair, Kinky hair does not easily refract light, the curl pattern is not readily defined and the curls are more compact or corkscrew like in nature.
Unlike Wavy and Curly hair, Kinky hair s-strands don't readily work together in unison. They don't have a distinct patter as the photo on the right indicates. The curls are there, they just aren't curving in the same direction. Each curly strand is speaking its own language...doing its own thing.
To get kinky hair s-strands to work together, the addition of product (usually significantly more product than with Wavy or Curly hair), is necessary.
The addition of product not only leads to curl definition, but it also imparts shine.
Kinky hair is more fragile than the previously discussed hair types. Reason being, with each hair strand doing it's own thing, normal styling can force hairs to go in directions they don't won't to and this can lead to breakage.
Due to the increased number of "bumps"/curls in each individual strand and the difficulty of Kinky hair to come together to form a unified wave, our hairs' natural oil takes longer to work its way from root to tip. As a result, Kinky hair is also drier than the previously discussed hair types (although not as dry as Nappy hair).
Due to slower oil distribution, Kinky gets "dirty" slower and needs to be shampooed less frequently.
Type 5 - Nappy Hair
As with Kinky hair, Nappy hair is designated by compact (lowercase) "s's" and "o's." The difference is, the s-shape and o-shapes with Nappy hair are the most compact. In other words, you have to get right up on Nappy hair types to identify the bends and twists in the hair.
Nappy hair is far more spongy and tends to be coarser (thicker) and rougher in some cases than Kinky hair.
Nappy hair's s-curls require a far more specialized product line when compared to other types. I know those of you with Nappy hair don't like to hear this but keep in mind this article isn't about telling you what you ain't got. It's about explaining what you do so that you pick hair styles and products that work with your hair rather than "agin it."
Still bummed? Don't let historical BS keep you from reading and learning with an open mind. Shelve your feelings, shelve what folks told you bout Nappy hair, and let's continue this journey.
Consider the following examples regarding product usage and style.
Example 1: Where the addition of a gel or gel-like product may cause Kinky hair to mimic Curly hair, adding the same product to Nappy hair may result in little or no change...the curls will continue to work individually.
Example 2: What happens when you add oil sheen to straight, wavy or naturally curly hair? It shines more correct? What happens when you add oil sheen to Kinky hair? To Nappy hair?
What this means is that aside from the Afro, Kinky-Nappy hair is not always well suited for "open" hair styles. Nappy hair especially benefits most from styles that encourage its individual curl strands to work together.
As a result, braids, cornrows, twists, dreadlocks, etc are all styles that accentuate Nappy hairs' beauty, health and growth rather than detract from it.
Now that we understand the 5 basic types of hair...
WHAT IS YOUR TYPE? WRITE IT DOWN.
Over the past few years I've been developing a system called the S~Factor. This system will maximize a number of "S"~Factors and will teach you how to work with your Type 3a, 3b, 3c, 4a or 4b hair type.
With your purchase you will received a detailed explanation on how to use the products in your kit. Depending on your type, you may have to use more or less of a product but the end goal remains the same, beautiful, defined, soft, bouncy, shiny, healthy S~Curls.
To achieve Separation, Sexy, Shiny, Silky S~Curls, you'll be initiating the following steps. In brief they are...
Step 1: Smooth the product on your hair.
Step 2: Separate and define your curls
Step 3: Seal your curls.
Step 4: Sculpt your style.
Step 5: Set your style by air drying or diffusing.
To maintain your S~curls, in the morning you repeat steps 3-4 and voila!
Kinky and Nappy hair have been a BEAST for me to describe because where I do not want to fall into the trap of classifying these hair types as "African," I do want to take into consideration the special needs of natural Black hair.
One of the troubles in expanding on the Kinky and Nappy hair types is that depending on heritage, whether you be African, African-American, Afri-Caribbean, Afri-German...Jewish or Unknown, your ethnic ancestral heritage may be varied and as a result, your hair typology will be varied as well. This is also a pretty good time to discuss the Type 3 or Type 4 Controversy.
Having reviewed many sources, it seems to me that some who have written articles regarding hair typing is that Type 3 is for Whites and Biracial individuals with at least one African parent. Type 4 was therefore relegated to anybody who ain't all of the above...in other words, "real" Black folk.
So what if both your parents are Black, but your hair is just like those in Type 3? Why then in most cases are you considered Type 4?
What also troubled me is that Type 4 lumps together Black folks no matter what their degree of curl and invariably resulted in a convoluted system known as LOIS that was designed for African hair typing specifically.
Where I applaude the efforts of L.O.I.S, (hand raised) "oooh oooh oooh, I got idea!"
Instead of having one HUGE category for anyone who is remotely African, why not continue to divide the various African hair types into separate categories based on...I dunno...their hair?!?! Yeah I know, GENIUS!
Curly Custard Maximum Definition Hairdress
Curly Custard will accentuate & define your natural curl pattern. Curly Custard is your answer to starting and maintaining wavy hair styles, finger-twists, comb-coils...you name it! Moisturizing and hair growth ingredients too!Now Available Online! |
As with Curly hair, Kinky hair is also designated by an "s's" and "o's" but unlike Curly hair, Kinky hair does not easily refract light, the curl pattern is not readily defined and the curls are more compact or corkscrew like in nature.
Unlike Wavy and Curly hair, Kinky hair s-strands don't readily work together in unison. They don't have a distinct patter as the photo on the right indicates. The curls are there, they just aren't curving in the same direction. Each curly strand is speaking its own language...doing its own thing.To get kinky hair s-strands to work together, the addition of product (usually significantly more product than with Wavy or Curly hair), is necessary.
The addition of product not only leads to curl definition, but it also imparts shine.
Kinky hair is more fragile than the previously discussed hair types. Reason being, with each hair strand doing it's own thing, normal styling can force hairs to go in directions they don't won't to and this can lead to breakage.
Due to the increased number of "bumps"/curls in each individual strand and the difficulty of Kinky hair to come together to form a unified wave, our hairs' natural oil takes longer to work its way from root to tip. As a result, Kinky hair is also drier than the previously discussed hair types (although not as dry as Nappy hair).
Due to slower oil distribution, Kinky gets "dirty" slower and needs to be shampooed less frequently.
Type 5 - Nappy Hair
As with Kinky hair, Nappy hair is designated by compact (lowercase) "s's" and "o's." The difference is, the s-shape and o-shapes with Nappy hair are the most compact. In other words, you have to get right up on Nappy hair types to identify the bends and twists in the hair.
Nappy hair is far more spongy and tends to be coarser (thicker) and rougher in some cases than Kinky hair.
Nappy hair's s-curls require a far more specialized product line when compared to other types. I know those of you with Nappy hair don't like to hear this but keep in mind this article isn't about telling you what you ain't got. It's about explaining what you do so that you pick hair styles and products that work with your hair rather than "agin it."
Still bummed? Don't let historical BS keep you from reading and learning with an open mind. Shelve your feelings, shelve what folks told you bout Nappy hair, and let's continue this journey.
Consider the following examples regarding product usage and style.
Example 1: Where the addition of a gel or gel-like product may cause Kinky hair to mimic Curly hair, adding the same product to Nappy hair may result in little or no change...the curls will continue to work individually.
Example 2: What happens when you add oil sheen to straight, wavy or naturally curly hair? It shines more correct? What happens when you add oil sheen to Kinky hair? To Nappy hair?
What this means is that aside from the Afro, Kinky-Nappy hair is not always well suited for "open" hair styles. Nappy hair especially benefits most from styles that encourage its individual curl strands to work together.
As a result, braids, cornrows, twists, dreadlocks, etc are all styles that accentuate Nappy hairs' beauty, health and growth rather than detract from it.
Now that we understand the 5 basic types of hair...
WHAT IS YOUR TYPE? WRITE IT DOWN.
MaxiMaxKurlKit Contains ($97.88 Retail ~ Save 25%)1 ~ 9oz Aromatherapy Sulfates Free Moisturizing Shampoo1 ~ 17oz Aromatherapy S~Factor Herbal Deep Conditioner 1 ~ 16oz Curly Custard Maximum Definition Hairdress 1 ~ 32oz Aromatherapy Moisturizing Aloe Vera Jelly MaxiMiniKurlKit Contains ($61.99 Retail ~ Save 15%)1 ~ 9oz Aromatherapy Sulfates Free Moisturizing Shampoo1 ~ 9oz Aromatherapy S~Factor Herbal Deep Conditioner 1 ~ 8oz Curly Custard Maximum Definition Hairdress 1 ~ 16oz Aromatherapy Moisturizing Aloe Vera Jelly You may also purchase these products separately. |
advertisement
With your purchase you will received a detailed explanation on how to use the products in your kit. Depending on your type, you may have to use more or less of a product but the end goal remains the same, beautiful, defined, soft, bouncy, shiny, healthy S~Curls.
To achieve Separation, Sexy, Shiny, Silky S~Curls, you'll be initiating the following steps. In brief they are...
Step 1: Smooth the product on your hair.
Step 2: Separate and define your curls
Step 3: Seal your curls.
Step 4: Sculpt your style.
Step 5: Set your style by air drying or diffusing.
To maintain your S~curls, in the morning you repeat steps 3-4 and voila!
The Three Hair Texture Degrees: A, B or C
As we've already discussed, just because you have a certain hair type, doesn't mean your hair lacks some of the characteristics associated with other hair types. So for example, you can without a doubt have Straight hair, but what if there are slight bumps and waves? Does that make your hair Curly? Of course not, it's Straight, it's just has identity issues.
The three degrees breaks down hair typology a bit further and compensates for the fact that many people's hair represents a mixture and varying degrees of the primary hair typology. Degrees are given one of three letters: a, b or c and are explained in detail below.
STRAIGHT HAIR DEGREES
Straight hair has the highest degree of shine.
Straight hair has difficulty maintaining curly or wavy hair styles.
Due to sebum (hairs' natural oil) ability to work its way down the length of straight hair strands without being inhibited by curls, waves or bumps, straight hair gets oilier faster than other hair styles.
Sebum also acts as a natural protectant. It seals in moisture and protects hair from damage. Given that sebum is able to freely distribute itself throughout straight hair, straight hair is therefore the sturdiest of all hair types. In other words, our hair's natural defense (sebum), is ever-present and coats straight hair strands easier than it does on other hair types.
In contrast, Kinky and Nappy hair have the highest degree of curvature/curls. Every curl or turn in our hair means that sebum takes a longer time to work its way from root to tip.
The way in which sebum is distributed means that straight hair needs more frequent washings. Most over-the-counter shampoos are designed for use on straight hair. Reason being, O-T-C shampoos are designed to strip and remove excess oils from hair. The irony is, this is exactly the opposite of what is needed for wavier and curly hair types.
Although shampoos that contain harsh cleansers are bad for all hair types, Straight hair's ability to quickly distribute sebum means that it is able to "bounce back" and defend itself more readily than others.
WAVY HAIR DEGREES
CURLY HAIR DEGREES
Straight Hair, Wavy ad Some Curly Photos Courtesy of Ben Goldstein/Studio D; Marie Claire
The three degrees breaks down hair typology a bit further and compensates for the fact that many people's hair represents a mixture and varying degrees of the primary hair typology. Degrees are given one of three letters: a, b or c and are explained in detail below.
STRAIGHT HAIR DEGREES
Type 1A Straight. No discernible wave. "Bone-Straight." |
 Type 1B Two or three slight waves/bumps. Hair is still considered straight overall. |
 Type 1C One or more clearly visible S-waves usually at the nape of neck or along the temples. Beyond these minimal areas, the rest of the hair is straight. |
|
Straight hair has difficulty maintaining curly or wavy hair styles.
Due to sebum (hairs' natural oil) ability to work its way down the length of straight hair strands without being inhibited by curls, waves or bumps, straight hair gets oilier faster than other hair styles.
Sebum also acts as a natural protectant. It seals in moisture and protects hair from damage. Given that sebum is able to freely distribute itself throughout straight hair, straight hair is therefore the sturdiest of all hair types. In other words, our hair's natural defense (sebum), is ever-present and coats straight hair strands easier than it does on other hair types.
In contrast, Kinky and Nappy hair have the highest degree of curvature/curls. Every curl or turn in our hair means that sebum takes a longer time to work its way from root to tip.
The way in which sebum is distributed means that straight hair needs more frequent washings. Most over-the-counter shampoos are designed for use on straight hair. Reason being, O-T-C shampoos are designed to strip and remove excess oils from hair. The irony is, this is exactly the opposite of what is needed for wavier and curly hair types.
Although shampoos that contain harsh cleansers are bad for all hair types, Straight hair's ability to quickly distribute sebum means that it is able to "bounce back" and defend itself more readily than others.
naani's naturals Customer Reviews
"This is great! I asked my stylist what she used on her hair when she has dry scalp and she told me about [naani.com]. Now every time I get my hair done or go for a touch-up she greases my scalp with this butter. Last week she told me I had to get my own so I am :-) Keep up the great work!" -Ariel Sanders
Aromatherapy No More Frizzies Aloe Vera Styling JellyNow Available Online! |
naani's naturals Customer Reviews
"I don't know what I'd do without Naani's No More Frizzies Styling Jelly. Seriously. The Lock'd Down Butter is essential after a great shampoo and the jelly gives that extra hold that my hair needs." - Chris Granaani's naturals Customer Reviews
"Oh my! To say that I LUV this product would be an understatement! I BC'd a couple of weeks ago and was looking for a product to help define my curl pattern without leaving my hair sticky or crunchy. Curly custard is light, moisturizing, and it works very well to define my curls. It will definitely be a staple in my hair care regimen! Thank you so much!" -Camille Hoosmannaani's naturals Customer Reviews
"I just received the Lock'd Down II today and the smell is absolutely fabulous!!! For the last few months I've been maintaining my own hair using the Grapefruit Witchhazel Astringent, Aida No Sulfates Shampoo, and Lock'D Down I. My hair looks and feels better now than it did when I was going to the salon. The Lock'd Down II exceeds my expectations. Now when people ask me what I use on my hair, I immediately refer them to the naani site." -GaLocsWAVY HAIR DEGREES
|
Type 2A Loose, elongated S-waves throughout the hair Type 2B Shorter, more compact and distinct S-waves |
Type 2C Distinct, compact S-waves appearing at random throughout the hair Wavy hair is subject to humidity which means it's more likely to frizz in moist environments. Wavy 2A can mimic straight hair whereas 2B/2C have far more difficulty maintaining straight styles. 2B/2C when blown straight are more prone to frizzing/drawing up in humid weather for example. |
CURLY HAIR DEGREES
|
Type 3A Large, loose, compact S-curls with a discernible pattern (the individual curl strands work in unison). Type 3B S-curls that form the shape of ringlets with a discernible pattern (the individual curl strands work in unison). |
 Type 3C S-curls
that are tighter and more compact like corkscrews with a discernible
pattern (the individual curl strands work in unison).Curly hair has a definite S or s-shape...in some cases it may resemble a Z. Regardless, curly hair's s-shape can be viewed easily from a distance. Unlike Kinky hair, curly hair is curly with or without product; product is not required to accentuate or define the curls. Where all hair is subject to environmental fluctuations, curly hair is beholden to humidity. In humid weather, where the air is filled with moisture, curly hair "grows"...sorta like a Chia Pet. The moisture causes this hair type to draw up and/or frizz. In comparison with the previous two types, curly hair is far more susceptible to styling damage. |
Straight Hair, Wavy ad Some Curly Photos Courtesy of Ben Goldstein/Studio D; Marie Claire
The Three Hair Texture Degrees Continued...
Ruth Negga is pictured above. Ms. Negga has 3C Curly Hair Type. Wet or dry, Ms. Negga's S-curls are discernible (clearly visible). Keep in mind, the differentiation between Type 3 Curly and Type 4 Kinky is in curl discernment. People who are Type 4 require product to accentuate and define curls. People who are Type 3 may use product to reduce frizz and add definition to their curls but product is not required.
Type 3C Curly Hair Recap
S/s-curls that are tighter and more compact like corkscrews with a discernible pattern (the individual curl strands work in unison and are visible).
KINKY HAIR DEGREES
Kinky hair types, like Wavy, suffer from middle child syndrome. Where Wavy is stuck between Straight and Curly Types, Kinky is stuck between Curly and Nappy.
Kinky hair requires product for curl definition. Kinky hair clearly has curls, they do not however work in tandem without assistance of product or hair styling (two-strand twists, coils, double strands, etc...)
The Case of Two Strands
A woman with Curly or Kinky hair will notice that when in two-strands, the hair draws onto itself (curls and behaves like a corkscrew). With curly hair, their will be shrinkage but the two-strands will retain their elongated shape. However when kinky hair is in two-strands, it's as if your hair has actually lost several inches as the two-strand structure encourages kinky hair's curls to work together. When the curls work together, the "corkscrew"/springy nature of kinky hair emerges.
Like Curly Hair, Kinky Hair is very responsive to humidity. This hair type has difficulty holding a press for example. In the presence of humidity, it will "grow"/poof/frizz so flat-ironing often results in a temporary, and easily reversible straight hair styles. In humid weather, flat-ironed kinky hair will have difficulty holding a curl and will naturally want to revert back to its natural state. Thus hot combing produces better results for this hair type and when doing so, heavier pomades and higher heat settings are best when trying to maintain straight hair styles. In other words, the more stuff (coating) on your recently straightened hair, the greater barrier there is between your hair and humidity.
Another example of Kinky hair's humidity susceptibility is seen when the hair is styled in an Afro. Where Nappy hair will maintain and retain its compact shape, Curly hair will have clearly visible, but highly frizzy S/s-curls, Kinky hair (like all hair actually), elongates in humid weather (hair is longer in humid climates, shorter in dry climates) and looks more like cotton candy. A Kinky Afro in humid weather is therefore more collapsible. Its wispy/cotton-candy-like appearance and feel will cause it to depress more readily.
Kinky Hair Textures
Type 4A
I'm citing the above photos from the original L.O.I.S. system for consistency and to help you see how the naani system and L.O.I.S. correlate.
Type 4A is...
Dense, spongy, fluffy.
Short-medium length s-curls that are more compact like corkscrews.
Little-medium discernible pattern when dry (the individual curl strands work individually) without the addition of product. On shorter lengths, the pattern is more discernible.
With the addition of product, 4A can mimic 3C Curly Hair.
4A Kinky hair requires a greater deal of product than curly hair to accentuate and define curls.
 Laura Ibizor |
 naaniMODEL tubby |
Type 4B
Dense, cottony-spongy, fluffy.
Short length s-curls that are more compact like corkscrews.
Little discernible pattern when dry (the individual curl strands work individually) without the addition of product. On shorter lengths, the pattern is more discernible.
With the addition of product, 4B mimics 3C Curly/4A (with product) Kinky Hair.
4B Kinky hair requires a greater deal of product than curly hair to accentuate and define curls. The differentiation between it and 4A is the way the curls behave once the product is added.
With 4A, once product is added, the hair will form fewer uniform s-curl sets. Look at the 4A picture and notice how the curls uniformly work their way from root to tip. You could glide your hand over 4A hair with product and the waves/curls would ebb and flow in the same relative pattern.
With 4B, the s-curls have uniform sets but there are far more of them (sets). In the case of 4B, the curls are still doing their own thing but a greater number of the curls strands are working together allowing the hair to form a multitude of curly tendrils/corkscrews that give the hair a afri-curly appearance.
NAPPY HAIR DEGREES
Nappy Hair is a little bit more difficult to depict via photos. Of all hair types, category 5 is largely dependent upon degrees...the texture, the feel of the hair.
In terms of appearance, Nappy Hair differentiates itself from Curly and Kinky hair in one simple way, Nappy hair's curl pattern is not easily discernible (not clearly visible). The curls exist, they just do not work in tandem.
When product is applied to Nappy hair to differentiate and accentuate curls, you may see a little definition but in general, once the product dries, Nappy hair may (or may not) be able to achieve definition similar to Type 4B-without product.
Nappy Hair does not have a natural shine. If there is no additional heat, artificial shine via hair products does little to increase Nappy Hair's sheen.
Type 5A
Somewhat coarse, dense, very short z-curls that are the most compact, fall in odd, zigzag patterns and no discernible pattern (the individual curl strands work individually).
Cotton-like, slightly rough, fine hair, very short z-curls that are the most compact, fall in odd, zigzag patterns and no discernible pattern (the curls individual curl strands individually).
Type 5C
Wiry, coarse, wide strand hair in diameter with very short z-curls that
are the most compact, fall in odd, zigzag patterns and no discernible
pattern (the curls individual curl strands individually).This type is more likely to have far more circular coils at the nape and temples.
WHAT IS YOUR TYPE? WRITE IT DOWN.
If you're still unsure of your hair's type, here's a simple review...
Type 1 - Straight: No Curls. No Visible Curl Pattern.
Type 2 - Wavy: Few-Moderate Waves. Low-Moderate Visibility with or without product. Loose Wave Pattern.
Type 3 - Curly: Moderate-High Curls. High Visibility with or without product. Loose-Compact Curl Pattern.
Type 4 - Kinky: Moderate-High Curls. Moderate-High Visibility with product. Compact Curl Pattern.
Type 5 - Nappy: Moderate to High Curls/Coils. No-Low Visibility with or without product. Dense and Compact Curl Pattern.
Two or More Degrees?
In some cases, you may actually have two or more types.Usually, this occurs at the nape of the neck, at the crown or near the temple area.
In such cases, you would designate your hair based on the isolated area. In the photo on the right, JetCityGirl's hair is Type 3c (based on the naani system) at the neck-line area and appears to be Type 4b elsewhere. So 4b-3c is her type with the predominant type appearing first.
Straight Hair, Wavy ad Some Curly Photos Courtesy of Ben Goldstein/Studio D; Marie Claire
Hair Texture: Fine, Medium, Coarse
Back in middle school I went for my first hair cut which was ultimately a disaster. I wanted layers and I walked out looking like a poodle but I digress. When the stylist began cutting my hair, she commented on how much hair I had.
My aunt who'd accompanied me replied, "Yes, her hair is very thick."
The stylist replied in turn, "No, her hair isn't 'thick.' She just has a lot of hair."
I'd always been told my hair was thick and after the cut, my aunt and I spoke briefly about how I would never return to the stylist because she didn't know what she was talking about. Well, the stylist damn sure didn't know how to cut hair but she knew exactly what she was talking about regarding my hair not being "thick."
What she meant was my individual hair strands are not thick. And they aren't. I do however have a lot of strands of hair on my head. This leads us to understanding Hair Stranding Typology or Texture and Volume.
The 3 Hair Textures
When you look at hairs under a microscope, they will have varying degrees of thickness. How thick, how wide around or in other words, the circumference of a particular hair strand is dependent upon a number of factors. Age, Ethnicity, the region from which the hair was obtained all come into play.
Not to gross you out but WOO-WOO hair will typically be coarser than hair on your forearms.
For most people, eyebrow hair will be coarser than nose hair.
A man's facial hair will be usually be coarser than head hair.
So when you we say that one's hair is fine or coarse, what we're really saying is, how wide it is around and the bigger the individual hair strand is, the rougher (coarser) the hair will feel to the touch.
Type F - Fine
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears thin and almost translucent (see-through) when held up to the light, it's classified as "Fine." Another common term for the way this type of hair appears is "peach-fuzz." Look at the hair on your upper arm/bicep area. For most people, this hair appears thin and translucent or Fine. Where Fine head hair will be thicker than hair on your upper arm, it serves as a guideline for comparing Fine hair strands to the other types. Still confused?
If you do indeed have fine hair on your upper arm (or other parts of your body (thighs, abdominal region for women, etc), let's compare it to areas where you might have coarser hair. Compare the fine hair to hair in your WOO-WOO region, under your arms, on your knuckles, toes, legs, eyebrows. These regions tend to have heavier/darker/more weighty strands of hair.
Pluck a hair from what you think might be a Fine hair region, pluck one from an area that's Coarse. After you're done tearing up, hold each strand up to the light and compare. The one you can almost see through, the one that seems to change color when held against the light, that's the one that's "Fine." Fine hair is the most fragile.
Type M - Medium
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears neither ultra-light and feather (Fine), is not translucent and is not rough or thread-like, you have Medium strands. Medium strands are similar to arm or leg hair on those of us that have arm/leg hair. They will hold their color better than fine hair when held against the light and its texture will be similar to a piece of cotton thread.
Type C - Coarse
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears to be neither ultra-light or feathery (Fine), is solid to the touch but not cotton-like, solidly holds it color when held up against a light source and is clearly visible when held up to a solid background, you most likely have Coarse hair strands. Coarse strands are far more solid/hard to the touch when compared to Type M.
Coarse hair is evident in most all people in the WOO-WOO region, along the happy trail (the hair that leads from your navel to your WOO-WOO), bearded regions for men, eyebrows and female whiskers (those hairs that grow in your chin area that you dont want anyone to know about). In comparison to the other types, coarse hair has greater tensile strength (able to withstand stress and pressure).
WHAT IS YOUR TYPE? WRITE IT DOWN.
My aunt who'd accompanied me replied, "Yes, her hair is very thick."
The stylist replied in turn, "No, her hair isn't 'thick.' She just has a lot of hair."
I'd always been told my hair was thick and after the cut, my aunt and I spoke briefly about how I would never return to the stylist because she didn't know what she was talking about. Well, the stylist damn sure didn't know how to cut hair but she knew exactly what she was talking about regarding my hair not being "thick."
What she meant was my individual hair strands are not thick. And they aren't. I do however have a lot of strands of hair on my head. This leads us to understanding Hair Stranding Typology or Texture and Volume.
The 3 Hair Textures
When you look at hairs under a microscope, they will have varying degrees of thickness. How thick, how wide around or in other words, the circumference of a particular hair strand is dependent upon a number of factors. Age, Ethnicity, the region from which the hair was obtained all come into play.
Not to gross you out but WOO-WOO hair will typically be coarser than hair on your forearms.
For most people, eyebrow hair will be coarser than nose hair.
A man's facial hair will be usually be coarser than head hair.
So when you we say that one's hair is fine or coarse, what we're really saying is, how wide it is around and the bigger the individual hair strand is, the rougher (coarser) the hair will feel to the touch.
Type F - Fine
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears thin and almost translucent (see-through) when held up to the light, it's classified as "Fine." Another common term for the way this type of hair appears is "peach-fuzz." Look at the hair on your upper arm/bicep area. For most people, this hair appears thin and translucent or Fine. Where Fine head hair will be thicker than hair on your upper arm, it serves as a guideline for comparing Fine hair strands to the other types. Still confused?
If you do indeed have fine hair on your upper arm (or other parts of your body (thighs, abdominal region for women, etc), let's compare it to areas where you might have coarser hair. Compare the fine hair to hair in your WOO-WOO region, under your arms, on your knuckles, toes, legs, eyebrows. These regions tend to have heavier/darker/more weighty strands of hair.
Pluck a hair from what you think might be a Fine hair region, pluck one from an area that's Coarse. After you're done tearing up, hold each strand up to the light and compare. The one you can almost see through, the one that seems to change color when held against the light, that's the one that's "Fine." Fine hair is the most fragile.
Type M - Medium
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears neither ultra-light and feather (Fine), is not translucent and is not rough or thread-like, you have Medium strands. Medium strands are similar to arm or leg hair on those of us that have arm/leg hair. They will hold their color better than fine hair when held against the light and its texture will be similar to a piece of cotton thread.
Type C - Coarse
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears to be neither ultra-light or feathery (Fine), is solid to the touch but not cotton-like, solidly holds it color when held up against a light source and is clearly visible when held up to a solid background, you most likely have Coarse hair strands. Coarse strands are far more solid/hard to the touch when compared to Type M.
Coarse hair is evident in most all people in the WOO-WOO region, along the happy trail (the hair that leads from your navel to your WOO-WOO), bearded regions for men, eyebrows and female whiskers (those hairs that grow in your chin area that you dont want anyone to know about). In comparison to the other types, coarse hair has greater tensile strength (able to withstand stress and pressure).
WHAT IS YOUR TYPE? WRITE IT DOWN.
Hair Volumes: Thin, Normal, Thick
If you've read up until this point then I'm going to ask you to recall the incident I shared regarding my first hair cut where the stylist said that I didn't have thick hair, I just had a lot of it. In the previous section we learned about hair strand texture typing. In my case, I have Medium strand hair, but what accounts for my friends, family and people to this day stating that my hair is "thick?" The answer is, "volume."
As odd as it may sound, one can actually have Fine Texture hair that is Thick. In other words, where one's individual hair strands may be fine (like peach-fuzz), if you have a whole lot of hair follicles, it adds to the number of actual hairs on your head.
Thus when each and every strand of your hair is taken into consideration, we are able to determine your Hair's Volume typography.
DETERMINING VOLUME TYPE
This test is best left to those with longer hair. Begin by putting your hair into a ponytail. Ideally, it would rest at the top of your head because with lengths, you'll be able to gather all of your hair at the top.
Secure the ponytail with a rubber band of some sort.
Using measuring tape, measure the circumference (the circular width) of the ponytail just below the rubber band.
Now let's find out the results...
THIN VOLUME TYPE - TYPE T
Your ponytail measures less than 2 inches or 5 centimeters.
Typically Thin hair volume type consists of hair strands that are very, very small in diameter or "Fine" Texture Type and subsequently has a silkly feel to it.
Thin hair is light and airy. It also tends to flyaway.
Thin volume hair is typically Type 1-Straight Hair and doesn't hold a curly easily.
How to Style Thin Hair
Our objective should be to maximize your hairs' volume.
Try blunt hair cuts.
Combing and dry hair from the roots outward to add volume.
Use hair care products that strengthen or build on your hair such as protein and balsam conditioners, alcohol free styling gels and mousses.
What to Avoid if You Have Thin Hair
Just say no to heavy products. Heavy pomades and products that contain heavy waxes for example are a no-no. The heavier the product, the more it will weigh your hair down.
Chemical procedures should be done with great care and by a professional to discourage damage.
NORMAL or MEDIUM VOLUME TYPE - TYPE N
Your ponytail measures 2-4 inches or 5-10 centimeters.
Normal hair volume type is ideal for most hair styles and face shapes because it offers the greatest versatility. With this volume, virtually any hair style will get a thumbs up.
Unlike Thin Volumes which need product to beef up hair styles or Thick Volumes which have to avoid certain cuts to prevent the hair from looking too full, Normal hair is the most manageable.
Medium volume hair holds a curl better than fine hair.
Medium volume hair holds its own during chemical procedures.
THICK VOLUME TYPE - TYPE K
Your ponytail measures more than 4 inches or 10 centimeters.
Thicker volume hair will typically have Medium to Coarse hair textures.
Thick volume hair is more difficult to manage than Normal volume hair.
Thick volume hair has a tendency to overwhelm thin, slim face shapes.
Choosing the Right Hair Style
Our goal is to decrease the volume so that hair appears to be Normal.
Layered haircuts give Thick Volumes more definition, direction and shape.
Layers are great on short-medium length Thick Volume hair.
Layers also help to reduce the bulk appearance that would occur with a blunt cut.
Heavier, silkening products such as pomades and heavier hair gels increase control and manageability of Thick Volume Hair.
Type 1 Straight Hair that is particularly lacking in wave or curls (perfectly straight), is often resistent to permanents (chemical curling). As a result, this hair volume may need more frequent perming in order to maintain a curl.
For individuals with dreadlocks, obviously these measurements don't apply. With dreadlocks, one should be able to easily gauge one's hair volume by the way the dreadlocks frame your face. The fuller the frame, the Thicker your hair's volume.
WHAT IS YOUR TYPE? WRITE IT DOWN.
THE RESULTS
Now up until this point you should've been writing down your type for each of the four sections. When you're done, you should have one number and 3 letters. They will be organized by Hair Type, Degree Type, Strand Type and Volume Type.
After calculating my own results, I have determined that I am 4b-MK. I will be refining this system over time with greater detail and explanation but it should serve as a guide to you as to what category your hair falls into. Where the naani hair typing system varies from that of established systems, what it does is to offer a greater distinction between hair textures and types.
Here are some photos of the other hair types.
Volume images courtesy of visual-makeover.com
As odd as it may sound, one can actually have Fine Texture hair that is Thick. In other words, where one's individual hair strands may be fine (like peach-fuzz), if you have a whole lot of hair follicles, it adds to the number of actual hairs on your head.
Thus when each and every strand of your hair is taken into consideration, we are able to determine your Hair's Volume typography.
DETERMINING VOLUME TYPE
This test is best left to those with longer hair. Begin by putting your hair into a ponytail. Ideally, it would rest at the top of your head because with lengths, you'll be able to gather all of your hair at the top.
Secure the ponytail with a rubber band of some sort.
Using measuring tape, measure the circumference (the circular width) of the ponytail just below the rubber band.
Now let's find out the results...
THIN VOLUME TYPE - TYPE T
Your ponytail measures less than 2 inches or 5 centimeters.
Typically Thin hair volume type consists of hair strands that are very, very small in diameter or "Fine" Texture Type and subsequently has a silkly feel to it.
Thin hair is light and airy. It also tends to flyaway.
Thin volume hair is typically Type 1-Straight Hair and doesn't hold a curly easily.
How to Style Thin Hair
Our objective should be to maximize your hairs' volume.
Try blunt hair cuts.
Combing and dry hair from the roots outward to add volume.
Use hair care products that strengthen or build on your hair such as protein and balsam conditioners, alcohol free styling gels and mousses.
What to Avoid if You Have Thin Hair
Just say no to heavy products. Heavy pomades and products that contain heavy waxes for example are a no-no. The heavier the product, the more it will weigh your hair down.
Chemical procedures should be done with great care and by a professional to discourage damage.
NORMAL or MEDIUM VOLUME TYPE - TYPE NYour ponytail measures 2-4 inches or 5-10 centimeters.
Normal hair volume type is ideal for most hair styles and face shapes because it offers the greatest versatility. With this volume, virtually any hair style will get a thumbs up.
Unlike Thin Volumes which need product to beef up hair styles or Thick Volumes which have to avoid certain cuts to prevent the hair from looking too full, Normal hair is the most manageable.
Medium volume hair holds a curl better than fine hair.
Medium volume hair holds its own during chemical procedures.
THICK VOLUME TYPE - TYPE KYour ponytail measures more than 4 inches or 10 centimeters.
Thicker volume hair will typically have Medium to Coarse hair textures.
Thick volume hair is more difficult to manage than Normal volume hair.
Thick volume hair has a tendency to overwhelm thin, slim face shapes.
Choosing the Right Hair Style
Our goal is to decrease the volume so that hair appears to be Normal.
Layered haircuts give Thick Volumes more definition, direction and shape.
Layers are great on short-medium length Thick Volume hair.
Layers also help to reduce the bulk appearance that would occur with a blunt cut.
Heavier, silkening products such as pomades and heavier hair gels increase control and manageability of Thick Volume Hair.
Type 1 Straight Hair that is particularly lacking in wave or curls (perfectly straight), is often resistent to permanents (chemical curling). As a result, this hair volume may need more frequent perming in order to maintain a curl.
For individuals with dreadlocks, obviously these measurements don't apply. With dreadlocks, one should be able to easily gauge one's hair volume by the way the dreadlocks frame your face. The fuller the frame, the Thicker your hair's volume.
WHAT IS YOUR TYPE? WRITE IT DOWN.
THE RESULTS
Now up until this point you should've been writing down your type for each of the four sections. When you're done, you should have one number and 3 letters. They will be organized by Hair Type, Degree Type, Strand Type and Volume Type.
After calculating my own results, I have determined that I am 4b-MK. I will be refining this system over time with greater detail and explanation but it should serve as a guide to you as to what category your hair falls into. Where the naani hair typing system varies from that of established systems, what it does is to offer a greater distinction between hair textures and types.
Here are some photos of the other hair types.
Volume images courtesy of visual-makeover.com