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What Hair Type and Texture do You Have? Straight, Wavy, Curly, Kinky or Nappy?

Hair Texture: Fine, Medium, Coarse
Back in middle school I went for my first hair cut which was ultimately a disaster.  I wanted layers and I walked out looking like a poodle but I digress.  When the stylist began cutting my hair, she commented on how much hair I had.  

My aunt who'd accompanied me replied, "Yes, her hair is very thick."  

The stylist replied in turn, "No, her hair isn't 'thick.'  She just has a lot of hair."

I'd always been told my hair was thick and after the cut, my aunt and I spoke briefly about how I would never return to the stylist because she didn't know what she was talking about.  Well, the stylist damn sure didn't know how to cut hair but she knew exactly what she was talking about regarding my hair not being "thick." 

What she meant was my individual hair strands are not thick.  And they aren't.  I do however have a lot of strands of hair on my head.  This leads us to understanding Hair Stranding Typology or Texture and volume.

The 3 Hair Textures

When you look at hairs under a microscope, they will have varying degrees of thickness.  How thick, how wide around or in other words, the circumference of a particular hair strand is dependent upon a number of factors.  Age, Ethnicity, the region from which the hair was obtained all come into play.

Not to gross you out but WOO-WOO hair will typically be coarser than hair on your forearms.

For most people, eyebrow hair will be coarser than nose hair. 

A man's facial hair will be usually be coarser than head hair. 

So when you we say that one's hair is fine or coarse, what we're really saying is, how wide it is around and the bigger the individual hair strand is, the rougher (coarser) the ha

ir will feel to the touch.

Type F - Fine
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears thin and almost translucent (see-through) when held up to the light, it's classified as "Fine."  Another common term for the way this type of hair appears is "peach-fuzz."   Look at the hair on your upper arm/bicep area.  For most people, this hair appears thin and translucent or Fine.  Where Fine head hair will be thicker than hair on your upper arm, it serves as a guideline for comparing Fine hair strands to the other types.  Still confused?

If you do indeed have fine hair on your upper arm (or other parts of your body (thighs, abdominal region for women, etc), let's compare it to areas where you might have coarser hair.  Compare the fine hair to hair in your WOO-WOO region, under your arms, on your knuckles, toes, legs, eyebrows.  These regions tend to have heavier/darker/more weighty strands of hair. 

Pluck a hair from what you think might be a Fine hair region, pluck one from an area that's Coarse.  After you're done tearing up, hold each strand up to the light and compare.  The one you can almost see through, the one that seems to change color when held against the light, that's the one that's "Fine."  Fine hair is the most fragile.

Type M - Medium
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears neither ultra-light and feather (Fine), is not translucent and is not rough or thread-like, you have Medium strands.  Medium strands are similar to arm or leg hair on those of us that have arm/leg hair.  They will hold their color better than fine hair when held against the light and its texture will be similar to a piece of cotton thread.

Type C - Coarse
If upon looking at your hair very closely it appears to be neither ultra-light or feathery (Fine), is solid to the touch but not cotton-like, solidly holds it color when held up against a light source and is clearly visible when held up to a solid background, you most likely have Coarse hair strands.  Coarse strands are far more solid/hard to the touch when compared to Type M. 

Coarse hair is evident in most all people in the WOO-WOO region, along the happy trail (the hair that leads from your navel to your WOO-WOO), bearded regions for men, eyebrows and female whiskers (those hairs that grow in your chin area that you dont want anyone to know about).  In comparison to the other types, coarse hair has greater tensile strength (able to withstand stress and pressure).

WHAT IS YOUR TYPE?  WRITE IT DOWN.

Comments

Comment #1 (Posted by tashma) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Thank you so much for this article. I was having the same problem with using lois and andre walker hair type. My next wash I will diffently determine my hair type and degree. One thing that surprised me of how fine my hair is !! LOL No matter how gentle I am with my hair it tends to break everytime. :( The search is on for that problem but this made it more clear. :)
Comment #2 (Posted by Tiffani) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Very wonderful, thorough, helpful and informative article! Great job!
Comment #3 (Posted by mica) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Excellent Overview and Breakdown....Thank you for catagorizing this with such easily understood terms!!
Comment #4 (Posted by NappyMoonlight) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingempty Unrated
There isn't any difference between Kinky and Nappy. Kinky means Nappy they're synonyms. What's described as Type 5 is known as CNapps. Other than that, very detailed and well stated. Kudos.
Comment #5 (Posted by Justice4Locs) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
@nappymoonlight, I hate that some women stride the fence of wanting Natural Black Hair to be accepted and understood by the mainstream but invariably fight against mainstreaming efforts by using ridiculous words. There IS a difference between Nappy and Kinky hair. If you Nappy, there ain't no reason to get defensive by trying to lump yourself in with Kinky :-P I got Nappy hair too girl. We gone be ok. Nappy hair is different and unique and the products for Nappy hair are different from Kinky hair. You can fake the funk if you want but don't trivialize a good article with little words [SNIP by admin]. If it makes you feel better by calling it some stupid name, go right ahead but Type 4 and 5 are different. I'm NappyAndProud! Now somebody tell me what to use to keep my kookoobugs in check!
Comment #6 (Posted by Justice4Locs) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Oh yeah! If you want good, honest truth, check out my blog... [blog ref deleted by admin - Justice you should know better use the listings!. But you can read some of Justice's blogging at http://fromgrandmaskitchen.com/boilingpoint]
Comment #7 (Posted by sapphire) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
great article but it does makes me doubt what i have always know which is that i have type 4 hair. my hair is visably curly pretty much all the time..maybe except when extremly dry. i dont need product to make my coils visable to the naked eye but its just the size. i cannot except my small coils Are not in the 4 range no matter how easy they are to see. maybe i'm just stuck in my old ways. i really liked all the info though.
Comment #8 (Posted by !hotgrannie!) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
@sapphire ~ Under LOIS, you are a type 4. Under this system, it sounds like you're Type 3C. Type 3 is for people who have "curl discernment" without product. My grandbaby has Type 3C hair. My daughter is Type 4A. I did my daughter's hair when she was little and now I do my grandbaby's. My grandbaby's hair is curly no matter what (frizzy but curly) and I think that's why she is Curly not Kinky. The reason why you're in a different category is that some of the products you use to get curly hair won't work on other types and vice versa. I think, and this is just MHO, hair typing is only the start. The next part will be figuring out what products work on what type.
Comment #9 (Posted by naanis naturals) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Thank you for the kind reviews :) Given how long this article is, I appreciate everyone taking the time to read it through. I've reflected on what I wrote and I don't want people to think this is an article promoting curly hair. There's an inherent understanding that I didn't discuss as much. What if you want the opposite of what your hair does naturally? If you're Type 1-2 and you want temp curly hair, rod sets are the first go-to but for most women with ultra-straight hair, you will have difficulty holding a curl and by the end of the day, what once was curly, isn't anymore. If you want curly hair all day, everyday without the fuss, you'll most likely have to perm. If you're type 3 and want temp straight hair, you can flat iron. If you want it all day everyday, a hair straighter/relaxer. If you're type 4, for temps you can hot comb, flat-irons don't always work on your type and result in a very light press that will revert more readily in humid weather. For permanent, relax. Type 5, for temp you can hot comb but like Type 1, you're on the end of the spectrum. Hot combing SOME Type 5's doesn't produce great results. Some Type 5's will not want to risk ultra high heat to get their edges in particular straight. In this case, if straight hair is desired everyday, all day, like Type 1 you'll have to go the chemical route and do the opposite of a perm...relax. On the flip, if you want hair that has curl discernment all day, everyday, texturize.
Comment #10 (Posted by ms_twana) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Naanis, I don't believe you listed the letters for hair volume. I saw that you used "K" for yourself, but I don't believe you listed them in the article. Unless I missed it.
Comment #11 (Posted by naanis naturals) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
@ ms_twana, tu as raison! the hair volume letters are as follows (and has been updated in the article). Thin (T), Normal (N) and Thick (K).
Comment #12 (Posted by ms_twana) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Thanks Naanis. I'll update my signature because I'll be using your system from now on!! : )
Comment #13 (Posted by mizzuk) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Very Informative
Comment #14 (Posted by HauteHairGurl) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
I'm so glad you took the time to do this! I'll be using this from now on and will put it in my signature on the hair boards!! Thank you so much!
Comment #15 (Posted by Christiana ) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingemptyratingempty Unrated
Great article my only thing is with the kinky hair "mimicking" the curl hair. I know Plenty of "curly haired girls were if you were to pick there hair their hair would resemble what you call a kinky haired girl. Hmmm...I also know that everyones hair is different Im sure not every girl type 3 haired girls with larger curls who's hair you consider curly hair readily goes into a curl without product while their are some type 4 girls with smaller curls whos hair readily forms curls without product. I think a persons hair Clumpability should be considered just because u have a certain texture of hair doesn't mean it will form into a clump more easily or less easily. Also kinky hair is curly hair the curls are much smaller but they are curls, if the hair is already curlyit cannot mimick curly hair.
Comment #16 (Posted by NubianPrize) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
An excellent article,but I still have my doubts about the value of hair typing as far as products go. According to this system I have mostly fine,kinky,thick 4a hair with some kind of 3c patch in mid nape. HOWEVER ! Super curly hair : from 3c to nappy 5c has an EXTREME amount of variance in curl size,behavior & texture from one head to another & some products recommended for those hair types do not work on all folks with those hair types. You can have two type 4 sisters in a family & they look just the same & can be classified the same,say 4a, but they can't use the same products & may find that products for other hair types work better. I feel that the main value of hair typing is to teach people about the general structure , characteristics, & behavior of their hair so they can make informed decisions about products. Message boards are filled with folks trying different products with varying degrees of success & some products may be horrible today,but if you try them in a few weeks or months down the road,they work just fine. I have yet to see an explanation for THAT.I tried Kinky Curly Knot Today last month & it was catastrophic. Made my hair hard, wiry, & EXTREMELY shrunken up so bad I had to re wash it & do a hot oil treatment & deep condition before I could get a comb thru it. Kinky Curly custard works wonderfully on my hair if used alone. Now LOTS of type 4a -5 folks just LOVE Knot Today & couldn't understand what happened with me.I hadn't done anything different thatn my usual.I may try it again in several months to see if it's still horrid. Isn't curly hair fascinating??? Even in the old anti-kinky hair days when I was a kid I never really wanted straight hair because I thought it was kinda boring. I always thought curly hair had more PERSONALITY !
Comment #17 (Posted by Na'Imah) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingempty Unrated
Great article but I still don't know my hair type! Here's the description: Course (large strand) all over; Normal volume; Wets easily around edges, but soaks up water in the center; Hangs heavily when fully wet; dries with hardly any shrinkage--sort of expands out like an umbrella; No distinct curl pattern, but strands form widely spaced, non-uniform angles; Very shiny when wet, moreso sheeny when dry but shines when pulled taut; Dries almost straight but not silky; Grows fast; Charcoal black color; curl enhancing products weigh it down making it more straight. Does anyone have hair like mine???? :)

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