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What Hair Type and Texture do You Have? Straight, Wavy, Curly, Kinky or Nappy?

Hair Volumes: Thin, Normal, Thick
If you've read up until this point then I'm going to ask you to recall the incident I shared regarding my first hair cut where the stylist said that I didn't have thick hair, I just had a lot of it.  In the previous section we learned about hair strand Texture typing.  In my case, I have Medium strand hair, but what accounts for my friends, family and people to this day stating that my hair is "thick?"  The answer is, "volume."  

As odd as it may sound, one can actually have Fine Texture hair that is Thick.  In other words, where one's individual hair strands may be fine (like peach-fuzz), if you have a whole lot of hair follicles, it adds to the number of actual hairs on your head. 

Thus when each and every strand of your hair is taken into consideration, we are able to determine your Hair's Volume typography.  

DETERMINING VOLUME TYPE
This test is best left to those with longer hair.  Begin by putting your hair into a ponytail.  Ideally, it would rest at the top of your head because with lengths, you'll be able to gather all of your hair at the top.

Secure the ponytail with a rubber band of some sort.

Using measuring tape, measure the circumference (the circular width) of the ponytail just below the rubber band.

Now let's find out the results...

thin hair
THIN VOLUME TYPE - TYPE T
Your ponytail measures less than 2 inches or 5 centimeters.

Typically Thin hair volume type consists of hair strands that are very, very small in diameter or "Fine" Texture Type and subsequently has a silkly feel to it.

Thin hair is light and airy.  It also tends to flyaway.

Thin volume hair is typically Type 1-Straight Hair and doesn't hold a curly easily.

How to Style Thin Hair
Our objective should be to maximize your hairs' volume. 

Try blunt hair cuts.

Combing and dry hair from the roots outward to add volume.

Use hair care products that strengthen or build on your hair such as protein and balsam conditioners, alcohol free styling gels and mousses.

What to Avoid if You Have Thin Hair
Just say no to heavy products.  Heavy pomades and products that contain heavy waxes for example are a no-no.  The heavier the product, the more it will weigh your hair down.

Chemical procedures should be done with great care and by a professional to discourage damage.



hair volume

NORMAL or MEDIUM VOLUME TYPE - TYPE N

Your ponytail measures 2-4 inches or 5-10 centimeters.

Normal hair volume type is ideal for most hair styles and face shapes because it offers the greatest versatility.  With this volume, virtually any hair style will get a thumbs up.

Unlike Thin Volumes which need product to beef up hair styles or Thick Volumes which have to avoid certain cuts to prevent the hair from looking too full, Normal hair is the most manageable.

Medium volume hair holds a curl better than fine hair.

Medium volume hair holds its own during chemical procedures.



hair volumeTHICK VOLUME TYPE - TYPE K
Your ponytail measures more than 4 inches or 10 centimeters.

Thicker volume hair will typically have Medium to Coarse hair textures.

Thick volume hair is more difficult to manage than Normal volume hair.

Thick volume hair has a tendency to overwhelm thin, slim face shapes.

Choosing the Right Hair Style
Our goal is to decrease the volume so that hair appears to be Normal. 

Layered haircuts give Thick Volumes more definition, direction and shape.

Layers are great on short-medium length Thick Volume hair.
Layers also help to reduce the bulk appearance that would occur with a blunt cut.

Heavier, silkening products such as pomades and heavier hair gels increase control and manageability of Thick Volume Hair.

Type 1 Straight Hair that is particularly lacking in wave or curls (perfectly straight), is often resistent to permanents (chemical curling).  As a result, this hair volume may need more frequent perming in order to maintain a curl. 



For individuals with Dreadlocks, obviously these measurements don't apply.  With dreadlocks, one should be able to easily gauge one's hair volume by the way the dreadlocks frame your face.  The fuller the frame, the Thicker your hair's volume.

WHAT IS YOUR TYPE?  WRITE IT DOWN.



THE RESULTS
Now up until this point you should've been writing down your type for each of the four sections.  When you're done, you should have one number and 3 letters.  They will be organized by Hair Type, Degree Type, Strand Type and Volume Type.  

After calculating my own results, I have determined that I am 4b-MK.  I will be refining this system over time with greater detail and explanation but it should serve as a guide to you as to what category your hair falls into.  Where the naani hair typing system varies from that of established systems, what it does is to offer a greater distinction between hair textures and types.

Here are some photos of the other hair types. 


Volume images courtesy of visual-makeover.com
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Comments

Comment #1 (Posted by tashma) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Thank you so much for this article. I was having the same problem with using lois and andre walker hair type. My next wash I will diffently determine my hair type and degree. One thing that surprised me of how fine my hair is !! LOL No matter how gentle I am with my hair it tends to break everytime. :( The search is on for that problem but this made it more clear. :)
Comment #2 (Posted by Tiffani) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Very wonderful, thorough, helpful and informative article! Great job!
Comment #3 (Posted by mica) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Excellent Overview and Breakdown....Thank you for catagorizing this with such easily understood terms!!
Comment #4 (Posted by NappyMoonlight) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingempty Unrated
There isn't any difference between Kinky and Nappy. Kinky means Nappy they're synonyms. What's described as Type 5 is known as CNapps. Other than that, very detailed and well stated. Kudos.
Comment #5 (Posted by Justice4Locs) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
@nappymoonlight, I hate that some women stride the fence of wanting Natural Black Hair to be accepted and understood by the mainstream but invariably fight against mainstreaming efforts by using ridiculous words. There IS a difference between Nappy and Kinky hair. If you Nappy, there ain't no reason to get defensive by trying to lump yourself in with Kinky :-P I got Nappy hair too girl. We gone be ok. Nappy hair is different and unique and the products for Nappy hair are different from Kinky hair. You can fake the funk if you want but don't trivialize a good article with little words [SNIP by admin]. If it makes you feel better by calling it some stupid name, go right ahead but Type 4 and 5 are different. I'm NappyAndProud! Now somebody tell me what to use to keep my kookoobugs in check!
Comment #6 (Posted by Justice4Locs) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Oh yeah! If you want good, honest truth, check out my blog... [blog ref deleted by admin - Justice you should know better use the listings!. But you can read some of Justice's blogging at http://fromgrandmaskitchen.com/boilingpoint]
Comment #7 (Posted by sapphire) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
great article but it does makes me doubt what i have always know which is that i have type 4 hair. my hair is visably curly pretty much all the time..maybe except when extremly dry. i dont need product to make my coils visable to the naked eye but its just the size. i cannot except my small coils Are not in the 4 range no matter how easy they are to see. maybe i'm just stuck in my old ways. i really liked all the info though.
Comment #8 (Posted by !hotgrannie!) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
@sapphire ~ Under LOIS, you are a type 4. Under this system, it sounds like you're Type 3C. Type 3 is for people who have "curl discernment" without product. My grandbaby has Type 3C hair. My daughter is Type 4A. I did my daughter's hair when she was little and now I do my grandbaby's. My grandbaby's hair is curly no matter what (frizzy but curly) and I think that's why she is Curly not Kinky. The reason why you're in a different category is that some of the products you use to get curly hair won't work on other types and vice versa. I think, and this is just MHO, hair typing is only the start. The next part will be figuring out what products work on what type.
Comment #9 (Posted by naanis naturals) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Thank you for the kind reviews :) Given how long this article is, I appreciate everyone taking the time to read it through. I've reflected on what I wrote and I don't want people to think this is an article promoting curly hair. There's an inherent understanding that I didn't discuss as much. What if you want the opposite of what your hair does naturally? If you're Type 1-2 and you want temp curly hair, rod sets are the first go-to but for most women with ultra-straight hair, you will have difficulty holding a curl and by the end of the day, what once was curly, isn't anymore. If you want curly hair all day, everyday without the fuss, you'll most likely have to perm. If you're type 3 and want temp straight hair, you can flat iron. If you want it all day everyday, a hair straighter/relaxer. If you're type 4, for temps you can hot comb, flat-irons don't always work on your type and result in a very light press that will revert more readily in humid weather. For permanent, relax. Type 5, for temp you can hot comb but like Type 1, you're on the end of the spectrum. Hot combing SOME Type 5's doesn't produce great results. Some Type 5's will not want to risk ultra high heat to get their edges in particular straight. In this case, if straight hair is desired everyday, all day, like Type 1 you'll have to go the chemical route and do the opposite of a perm...relax. On the flip, if you want hair that has curl discernment all day, everyday, texturize.
Comment #10 (Posted by ms_twana) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Naanis, I don't believe you listed the letters for hair volume. I saw that you used "K" for yourself, but I don't believe you listed them in the article. Unless I missed it.
Comment #11 (Posted by naanis naturals) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
@ ms_twana, tu as raison! the hair volume letters are as follows (and has been updated in the article). Thin (T), Normal (N) and Thick (K).
Comment #12 (Posted by ms_twana) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Thanks Naanis. I'll update my signature because I'll be using your system from now on!! : )
Comment #13 (Posted by mizzuk) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
Very Informative
Comment #14 (Posted by HauteHairGurl) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
I'm so glad you took the time to do this! I'll be using this from now on and will put it in my signature on the hair boards!! Thank you so much!
Comment #15 (Posted by Christiana ) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingemptyratingempty Unrated
Great article my only thing is with the kinky hair "mimicking" the curl hair. I know Plenty of "curly haired girls were if you were to pick there hair their hair would resemble what you call a kinky haired girl. Hmmm...I also know that everyones hair is different Im sure not every girl type 3 haired girls with larger curls who's hair you consider curly hair readily goes into a curl without product while their are some type 4 girls with smaller curls whos hair readily forms curls without product. I think a persons hair Clumpability should be considered just because u have a certain texture of hair doesn't mean it will form into a clump more easily or less easily. Also kinky hair is curly hair the curls are much smaller but they are curls, if the hair is already curlyit cannot mimick curly hair.
Comment #16 (Posted by NubianPrize) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
An excellent article,but I still have my doubts about the value of hair typing as far as products go. According to this system I have mostly fine,kinky,thick 4a hair with some kind of 3c patch in mid nape. HOWEVER ! Super curly hair : from 3c to nappy 5c has an EXTREME amount of variance in curl size,behavior & texture from one head to another & some products recommended for those hair types do not work on all folks with those hair types. You can have two type 4 sisters in a family & they look just the same & can be classified the same,say 4a, but they can't use the same products & may find that products for other hair types work better. I feel that the main value of hair typing is to teach people about the general structure , characteristics, & behavior of their hair so they can make informed decisions about products. Message boards are filled with folks trying different products with varying degrees of success & some products may be horrible today,but if you try them in a few weeks or months down the road,they work just fine. I have yet to see an explanation for THAT.I tried Kinky Curly Knot Today last month & it was catastrophic. Made my hair hard, wiry, & EXTREMELY shrunken up so bad I had to re wash it & do a hot oil treatment & deep condition before I could get a comb thru it. Kinky Curly custard works wonderfully on my hair if used alone. Now LOTS of type 4a -5 folks just LOVE Knot Today & couldn't understand what happened with me.I hadn't done anything different thatn my usual.I may try it again in several months to see if it's still horrid. Isn't curly hair fascinating??? Even in the old anti-kinky hair days when I was a kid I never really wanted straight hair because I thought it was kinda boring. I always thought curly hair had more PERSONALITY !
Comment #17 (Posted by Na'Imah) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingempty Unrated
Great article but I still don't know my hair type! Here's the description: Course (large strand) all over; Normal volume; Wets easily around edges, but soaks up water in the center; Hangs heavily when fully wet; dries with hardly any shrinkage--sort of expands out like an umbrella; No distinct curl pattern, but strands form widely spaced, non-uniform angles; Very shiny when wet, moreso sheeny when dry but shines when pulled taut; Dries almost straight but not silky; Grows fast; Charcoal black color; curl enhancing products weigh it down making it more straight. Does anyone have hair like mine???? :)


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