Chemical Treatments
Chemical relaxers and permanent hair colors (those that contain ammonia) damage hair...period.  Where this damage can be minimized by properly using the product in the first place and avoiding over processing the hair, some minor damage is inevitable.  Thus after most chemical procedures one can expect the hair to be dry in appearance and Texture. 

When it's over processed, hair becomes weak and fragile which leaves it more susceptible to breakage...especially during styling.  In some cases, as with relaxers, the ramifications of over processing are not always immediate.  As your hair grows out, the ends may slowly break which will make it appear as if your hair is not growing.  So the new-growth ends up being negated by the hair breakage.  No wonder you can't get your relaxed hair to grow!

hair relaxerLesson 1:  Follow the manufacturer's instructions.  Do a patch test.  Process the product according to the directions.

Lesson 2:  When doing a Relaxer touch-up, DO NOT overlap.  The relaxer chemicals should ONLY go on the new-growth or virgin hair.  When you apply the product to hair that has been straightened already, you're just further weakening that section of hair.  Given that processing times vary from touch-up to touch up, some of the previously relaxed hair that comes into contact with the relaxer product will be weaker than others.  In the end, you're caught in a perpetual cycle of growth-loss that can easily be avoided. 

Hair grows an average of .5 inches
per month.  If you relax your hair every 4-6 weeks, that means the relaxer product should only touch approximately .75 (3/4ths) inches of hair.  Get your ruler out.  If you overlap more than .75 inches, you're bound to suffer breakage.  So don't!  You don't need to restraighten hair that's already been straightened!  It won't get straighter.  Eventually however, It will however break.

Lesson 3:  Don't recolor previously colored hair.  Like relaxers, color touch-ups should only be done on virgin hair.  If your color has lost its vibrancy, try a temporary color or a glaze.  Process with heat and voila!  Just like new.

Lesson 4:  Condition, Condition, Condition!  Conditioners will help to repair hair after a chemical procedure.  Where your hair will never be as strong or as healthy as it was before the chemicals, conditioners can help smooth the cuticle and reduce further damage.


Styling Damage
Normal and regular styling can also contribute to hair loss.  Believe it or not, you really don't need/want to brush your hair 100 times per night...wow, I just had a flash of Marcia from The Brady Bunch but I digress.

Lesson 1:  Use a wide-tooth comb for regular detangling and daily styling.

Lesson 2.  Use a natural bristle brush.  

Lesson 3.  Comb or brush from root to tip. When you hit a snap, remove it with your fingers and start from the top.

Lesson 4:  Use elastics that are wrapped in fabric to avoid snagging hair while wearing ponytails.  Or better yet, if fashion is not a concern, invest in some scrunchies.

Lesson 5:  Avoid brown/protein based gels that do not contain moisturizing agents such as aloe.  These products will rob hair of moisture and leave it more susceptible to styling damage.


Faire Attention!
Don't miss the signs.  If your hair doesn't appear to be growing and yet there's clear signs of new-growth, that means it's breaking.  Review the above lessons and make the necessary corrections.  

If you notice that your hair is thinning at the temples or along the hair line after wearing braids/cornrows, give your hair a rest.  Repeated hair loss in these areas can result in permanent, irreversible hair loss.