It's what you use and it's how you use it.  As I'm sure you've learned by now, caring for dreadlocks isn't a science, but it does require finessing of your maintenance skills and techniques.

Whether you want salon perfect dreadlocks, a maintained look with a bit of edge or dreadlocks that grow and look organic, your technique often dictates your dreadlocks appearance appearance overall moreso than products ever will. 

You must first and foremost understand that hair needs to be healthy in order to look healthy.  Too many people make the mistake of assuming that dreadlocks are a maintenance free style.  They often engage in practices that are detrimental to the health of their hair and subsequently their dreadlocks.  Never forget that dreadlocks are and will always be hair.  Where the way you approach your hair may be totally different from what you're accustomed to with other hair styles, you shouldn't disregard normal hair care practices.

In the end, if your maintenance techniques are unhealthy, your hair will be unhealthy...your dreadlocks will therefore look unhealthy.  Once you have secured a proper care routine for your hair, then you can focus on products. 

A good dreadlocks product will not only hold, but will add a degree of sheen that is sufficient for most hair textures.  Meaning, your hair won't be oily and the outer layers of your dreadlocks will look shiny and healthy.  But even the best product can't transform your hair if you're using it incorrectly.

So before you take our product suggestions, be sure to review the Dreadlocks Maintenance and Frequently Asked Questions areas.  When you know what to do and what not to do, that increases your chances of getting the dreadlocks look that you desire.

Locks do not have to be difficult to care for but many people have problems when it comes to how to properly shampoo and condition them.  Build-up and residue are common but most don't realize that this is due to an improper combination of products.
 
Are you the type to use heavy oils (such as olive) or grease your scalp in-between maintenance?  Do you go 2 or more weeks without shampooing your hair?  Believe it or not, the things that we do to keep our dreadlocks healthy are often the things which damage them and create drama during the cleansing process.
 
Remember, oil and water don't mix.  The objective of shampoos is to latch onto dirt and oils so that they can be easily rinsed away.  The problem with locks is that the oils/butters we use don't just sit on the surface.  We twist them inside the dreadlocks which means we have to cleanse our hair more fervently than individuals with loose hair styles, otherwise, we'll suffer build-up.
 
Clarifying shampoos and Herbal Vinegar Rinse Treatments are mandatory if you use heavy oils such as olive or grease your scalp frequently in-between maintenance.  They are also good to use if you're starting a new product line as Brand A may effect Brand B's performance.  Getting rid of all traces of Brand A may help you better determine if Brand B is right for you.
 
In addition to clarifying agents, astringents can be used in-between maintenance because they tend to "reactivate" oils that are already in your hair and thus reduce the need for further additions.  Because astringents are alcohol based, they also tend to work as temporary cleansing agents and therefore refresh hair and scalp.

Dreadlocks Maintenance: Heavy Product Users
You're a heavy product user if your locks appear hazy or you find goo in various dreadlocks after a vigorous shampoo.
 
More often than not, you'll find the goo in the portion of the lock that's closest to the scalp.  Stop and ask yourself, what you have put on your hair the days/weeks after your original shampoo?
 
If you grease your scalp frequently, coat your hair with heavy oils or do any combination/variation thereof, your repeated application of oils is exactly what's causing your dreadlocks to look dull and lifeless.
 
Remember, it's not the shampoo's fault.  Dreadlocks are basically matted hair so unlike individuals with loose hair styles, you shouldn't be liberally applying product upon product to your hair as if it has no consequences.  Dreadlocks have memory so although you may not see the oils/butters, they're there.  The key in dreadlocks care is learning how to bring the oils from the inside out BEFORE applying another dose of product.

The truth is, some misguided folk believe that the only way to dreadlock your hair is to refrain from shampooing it. The most common argument for filth regimines is that not-shampooing causes hair to lock quicker.
 
Today, MOST realize that this is not true and the filth stigma associated with locks is the result of a campaign in recent years to degrade people who've chosen to wear them.  Think about it, it wasn't until the 1930's that locks garnered their popular name.  Prior to Jamaica in the 1930's, locks represented one of the world's oldest and most prolific hair styles with everyone from religious leaders and monks wearing them, to Ancient Egyptians and Celts.
 

When and how often to shampoo largely depends on your hair texture and the method used to begin your dreadlocks. For example with braids and two-strand twists dreadlocking methods, the mere structure of these starter locks enables the wearer to shampoo more frequently and as often as needed from Day 1.  
 
In contrast, comb-coils, palm-rolls and finger twists which unravel more easily in the presence of water require time to "set" and develop before you initiate your first shampoo.  Thus, if you have two-strands or braids that you will transition into dreadlocks, shampoo at will.  If not, follow the advice below.
 
On average, most locticians recommend not shampooing your hair during the first 3-4 weeks because it causes twists to unravel; however, some dreadlocks wearers have found that more frequent washing actually caused their hair to dreadlock sooner because it strips excess oils from their hair which they believe retard the locking process.  The latter group are often those who have choosen the Freeform or Organic method of growing dreadlocks (Marley Locks).
 
After the 3-4 week period, most new dreadlocks wearers should transition to every 2-3 weeks of shampooing.  Once an individual reaches the Teenage Stage of dreadlocks, they generally can shampoo as often as they like with most shampooing every 7-14 days
 
Dreadlocks Maintenance: Unclean Hair is Unsanitary
Individuals that go weeks, even months without shampooing have so many stories of insecurity and overall funkiness that you'd be wise to reconsider the "not-washing" regimine. While they THOUGHT that not washing was the way to go and that EVERYONE who dreadlocks doesn't wash their hair, they are sadly mistaken.
 
If you're an active person or are a bit apprehensive about allowing your head to go weeks...months without a drop of shampoo, you should start you dreadlocks with a method that will enable you to wash your hair a little more than the average.  Again, two-strand twists and braids are great for individuals on the go.  You can shampoo these types of starter locks from the very beginning of your journey without much consequence
 
What bothers me and most seasoned lock wearers about filfth regimines is that they are often followed because "they" said it was the way to go.  Ask most people who don't shampoo their locks who told them to do so and they're rarely able to pinpoint a source.  When they do, the advice often came at the hands of an unscrupulous loctician or friend.
 
In the end, I honestly don't care what your loctician or others have recommended, after about 4 weeks, it's time to put some water and shampoo on those puppies. If you can go longer, more power to ya but why?  Not only are you making your journey anything but positive, you're adding credence to the term "dreadful" locks.
 
I've said it time and time again, not shampooing doesn't make your hair lock any faster...it just makes them stink and in turn, makes you nasty in the presence of others.
 
Dreadlocks Maintenance: The "But My Locks Don't Stink" Excuse
Most people who smell poorly are unaware of the penance they're imposing on others.  Going months at time doesn't convey your devotion to growing dreadlocks.  All it does is confirm your ignorance of the hair style and your willingness to prescribe to falsehoods and negative stereotypes associated with the style.
 
Friends and family may not tell you how funky your hair is.  Many times, they're being nice and when asked, most will lie as no one wants to be the bearer of such news.  In other cases, those close to you may have their own misconceptions of dreadlocks and may also think that in order to grow them, your hair has to be as filthy as possible.
 
So you may not be able to smell your hair but if it's been months since your last shampoo, they do indeed stink and are filthy.  If you've used product during this period, not only do they smell, but you're creating a situation where when you finally do shampoo, you may be unable to fully and completely remove the accumulated product from your hair.  In the end, your locks when wet will have an ingrained, foul stench that you may never be able to get rid of.
 
Dreadlocks may not smell overtly when dry but the litmus test is how they smell in the presence of water.  Once you add water, those months of neglect will radiate from your locks as if they're saying, "THANK GOD!...HOW LONG WERE YOU GOING TO KEEP ME HERE?!"
 
Think about it, even when hair is loose, we pick up smells and lint from our environment.  Over several months you're bound to have dandruff and dead skin that have flaked off your scalp.  All this gunk and debris not only make for damaged, funky locks, but they pose hygenic concerns as b acteria, yeast and fungus can accumulate in your locks.
 
So please, please, don't believe the hype.  You can shampoo as needed.  Give it a try!  It won't be the end of the world and your locks will be happier for it.

I know you've heard a lot about products that should be avoided when you have dreadlocks and much of the information is confusing.  In this section, we'll do our best to explain the No-No's in a way that cuts through the confusion.  Let's get started...

SHEA BUTTER:  I love shea.  It's great for use on dry skin which some people believe makes it great for use on dry scalp.  The problem with shea is that like all butters, it has a degree of waxiness to it.  Sometimes we confuse waxiness with oilness and it's not the same thing.  Shea is actually dull and has little luster.

This waxy property rates it as a C+ in terms of holding dreadlocks but overall it results in a grade of F over the long term as shea is difficult to shampoo out and builds up on hair.  Not to mention, it doesn't shine so twisting into your dreadlocks may hold them but don't expect them to look shiny and healthy.

Most people who use shea butter, particularily, the raw (yellow variety), develop splotchy, white patches that resemble clumps of lint throughout their dreadlocks.  Because dreadlocks are tightly matted, removing shea is cumbersome and thus you should AVOID using shea butter stand alone. 

Thw abovephoto of naaniMODEL SOULSISTA is a pretty good example of how shea butter can accumulate in dreadlocks.  Although difficult to see, the white specs you see in her hair are mainly the result of raw shea butter build-up.


With that said, this does NOT mean that you should avoid products that contain shea butter.  It is indeed excellent at alleviating dry skin.  What this does mean is that if it is used in too high a concentration,  you increase your chances of getting negative results.  A product that contains shea should be formulated for use on the scalp primarily as well as the hair.  Meaning, it should be light and creamy.  Think about it, If the main objective of shea butter is to help dry skin (scalp), then you want it on your scalp to do its work.  Because it's waxy NOT oily, it doesn't add sheen to the hair on its own.  Sheen in products containing shea butter is often the result of other oils and butters.

BEESWAX:  Like shea, beeswax is waxy...hence the name.  Like shea, if beeswax is used in too high a concentration, it can create build-up.  Like shea, beeswax offers excellent hold.  Like shea, beeswax does not has its own degree of luster.  So what does beeswax do?

It holds.  It's an excellent adherent.  When beeswax is used in dreadlocks products, it offers stability.  It increases the longevity that your twists will remain.  Unfortunately, many manufacturers overuse beeswax and as a result, like shea, you get far too much of the waxiness which results in build-up.

This is not to say that beeswax shouldn't be used in dreadlocks products.  In fact, it's excellent when formulated in the right proportion.  Which is also why naani's naturals Lock'd Down Dreadlocks Butter is our all-time best-selling product.  Customers and clients sware by it not only because it works, but also because it produces no build-up...and it contains beeswax.

Think of the use of shea butter and beeswax this way...have you ever used a concentrated cleanser?  If you used the cleanser full strength, it'd be strong enough to burn your skin, but the stronger it is, the faster it seems to clean and if your objective is to clean, then using it straight out of the bottle makes sense...or does it?

What if you could dilute the product and still get excellent results?  Sure, it may not clean instantly on contact but at the end of the day, it cleans.  

This same concept can be used when considering shea and beeswax.  They both have their respective upsides in terms of dreadlocks maintenance.  But, like the cleanser, if you use too much, you get burned.  If you use the right amount, you...or better yet, your hair, comes out clean.

There's so much controversy surrounding the use of beeswax that it's easier for most people to advise against it, but just because an ingredient is misunderstood and misused doesn't mean it should be disregarded.  You will soon discover that it's not the beeswax itself that causes problems, concentration is the key
 
Regardless of what locking product you choose, make sure that the texture or degree of hardness/rigidity in your products that contain beeswax is not due solely to the beeswax.  For example, Cocoa Butter is very hard when cooled but it also has a pretty low melting point. Therefore, if a product contains more or just as much cocoa butter as beeswax then chances are, much of the stiffness could actually be the cocoa butter, not the wax.
 
The photo to the left shows what pure, unrefined beeswax looks like.  So when customers or clients say that they used "beeswax" and didn't like the results,  it really gets under my skin.  Stating this would be equivalent to saying I used candle wax on my hair last night.  What they really mean is I used a product that CONTAINS beeswax and you will soon find that the contents isn't the problem, it's the concentration of said contents.
 
THE TRUTH ABOUT BEESWAX
Beeswax has traditionnally been used to help keep twists intact and smooth flyaways during the initial locking stages. The problem with traditional beesweax products is that they are manufactured to be so thick and gooey or ultra-hard that they were very difficult to shampoo out of your hair. Very hot water is often needed to fully remove the product and even then, there may still be some residue which overtime leads to build-up.
 
Try purchasing a jar of over-the-counter (OTC) beeswax-petroleum product and examining its consistency. Unlike the pomades we're used to, most OTC beeswax products are therefore thick and repel water like a raincoat.  Because these products usually contain additives like petrolatum/petroleum which clogs pores and gets trapped in dreadlocks, they're all the more difficult to wash out (it'd be like pouring a melted candle and vaseline onto your hair). So imagine having it in your hair after regular applications. How can you truly expect to remove it all in just one setting...especially when you have dreadlocks?

 
Using petroleum and mineral oil based products repeatedly can cause a build-up of the material in your dreadlocks that may be impossible to remove. In addition, as your locks mature, OTC beeswax or petroleum based products can give your hair a dull, lifeless appearance and can also cause your dreadlocks to become quite heavy.
 
The rule of thumb is that if it feels sticky and heavy, leave it on the shelf.  If you do a little label reading, It's really hard to find holding agents which don't contain some form of petroleum, mineral oil, etc. so it may take time to zero in on a product of choice.
 
Now some people throw a fit at the sight of beeswax on an ingredient list which I think is a bit over the top.  Beeswax has its benefits but as with all things in life, many of us prescribe by the "more is more" philosophy and that just doesn't work with dreadlocks.
Beeswax in and of itself isn't wholey evil.  It's what the product manufacturer has chosen to add to it, how much the manufacturer has used in the formulation AND how much product (no matter what the ingredients) you use during maintenance which determines its effectiveness.
 
With that said, there are beeswax products that work well with dreadlocks.  These products rinse clean and will leave no build-up on your hair.  They also offer better hold that you will get with traditional gels, pomades or hair dressings.  Such products take advantage of the holding power beeswax offers without over doing it.
 
The photo on the right shows naaniMODEL SOULSISTA's dreadlocks after using naani's naturals LOCK'D DOWN Dreadlocks Butter.  Here at naani we have formulated a wide variety of products for use on dreadlocks, one of them being naani's naturals LOCK'D DOWN Dreadlocks Butter. Our product contains the following Ingredients: Herb Infused Olive Oil, Jojoba, Cocoa Butter, Beeswax, Coconut Oil, Illipe Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Essential Oil and/or Fragrance Oil Blend.
 
Note, it contains beeswax but I'm sure you've been paying attention.  LOCK'D DOWN leaves no residue because we use a proper concentration of beeswax in our formulation.  Many of our clients and  naaniMODELS have used the product succesfully for years because it washes away easily and leaves no build-up or harmful residues.  LOCK'D DOWN remains our best selling product for a reason.
 
The texture of LOCK'D DOWN, whether you're purchasing the Creamy or Thick variety, is smooth.  It literally glides onto the hair and is not gooey like traditional dreadlocking products or hard as a brick like some that you'll find on the net.  You're sure to fall in love with it and once you try it, you'll never say "Never" to beeswax again because when a product is formulated right, that's just what it is...right.

All-Purpose or Witch-Hazel Astringents:  Whenever you are in need of retwist, try spritzing your locks with an astringent to loosen any existing oils rather than adding more oils/butters.  The Astringents work wonders and reduce build-up.  They also make shampooing easier and help keep locks refreshed and clean in-between maintenance.
 
Cucumber Lime Clarifying Shampoo:  Like astringents, clarifying shampoos help lift dirt, oil and build-up.  These shampoos have a lower PH than traditional shampoos and therefore need to be followed with a moisturizing shampoo and quality conditioner.
 
Essentially Herbal Vinegar Rinses: Vinegar acts as a natural astringent.  It loosens oils, helps remove minerals that are associated with hard water and help hair appear shinier.
 
USDA Certified Organic Castile Shampoos:  These shampoos MUST be followed with a conditioner.  If you are not at the stage where you are able to use a creamy conditioner, be sure to purchase an Essentially Herbal Vinegar Rinse.  The rinse will serve as a conditioning treatment. Best for use on mature locks as USDA Certified Organic Castile tends to soften hair and could retard locking when one has a loose curl pattern or straight hair.
 
Sulfate-Free Shampoos:  They're light and effective.  Follow with a vinegar rinse or s-factor conditioner. In terms of shampoos, sulfate-free are the best option for locks in all stages of growth (baby-mature stage). No-Sulfate Shampoos are ideal for baby locks as they gently cleanse, remove sediments and dirt, moisturize hair and do not retard locking.
 
S-Factor Herbal Deep Conditioner:  A light, creamy, deep moisturizing conditioner with a slightly lower PH to help reduce frizziness, smooth the hair cuticle and lift residues.  Conditioners should be used on those who are in the teenage to mature stages only.  Your hair type should also be taken into account.  The looser your curl or straighter your hair, the longer you should wait before integrating a conditioner into your hair care routine.  For people with loosely curled or straight hair, it's best to wait until your hair is fully mature before you start using conditioners.
 
LOCK'D DOWN Dreadlocks Butter (Original and Version II):  Our all-time favorite and best seller.  This product rinses clean and leaves no build-up.  We suggest a mind shift for heavy product users as this butter should serve all of your primary hair needs - sheen, hold, no residue.  Try using the LD Butter in place of oils and other products.  Use with our astringents in-between maintenance when retwisting locks.
 
No-More Frizzies Aloe Vera Jelly and Styling Gel:  These water based products are great at retwisting locks in-between maintenance.  Because they're not alcohol based, they do not dry out hair, nor do they flake.
 
Elixer I or II Healthy Hair Growth Scalp Dressing and Oyl:  This is a fairly intensive product as it takes 2-3 months to produce the product's primary herb-infused hair growth oil.  Not only does it promote growth but the 100% Pure Essential Oils used in this blend are contain natural astringents that help to cleanse scalp and reduce the accumulation of dandruff).
 
Spritz-It! Ultra-Light Hair Oyl:  Light hair oil to be used in place of Oil Sheens
 
Aromatherapy Herb-Infused Hair Oyls (Akira, Meeka & Quisha Aromatherapy and Herbal Blends):  This is a fairly intense product that takes us approximately 2-3 months to produce one batch.  It contains a bountiful blend of oils including olive, jojoba and coconut to moisturize, add sheen, combat dryness and stimulate scalp.
 
Moisturizing Hair & Body Mist:  A refreshing, greaseless spray that offers a burst of fragrance and lightly oils hair and skin.  Great for in-between maintenance as hair and locks tend to pick up a variety of odors (smoke, food, etc).
   
Other products:  Now that you have the basics, you can alter your product list based on your needs or preferences.  For example, naani offers Walk in the Clouds and Heavenly Hemp Healthy Hair Butters.  Both are made from natural oils and butters and smell wonderful.  You can use them to moisturize hair, "grease" your scalp and as one client recently told me, "I know it's for my hair but I use Heavenly Hemp EVERYwhere because it smells so good!"