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The 10 Ways to Grow Dreadlocks
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naanis naturals
authornaanis naturals is a hand-crafted, natural and organic beauty care line. Articles from http://naani.com are reprinted with permission and featured on FGK. Order select naani's naturals products from http://shopgrandmaskitchen.com  
By naanis naturals
Published on 03/1/2009
 
The many ways and methods by which you can grow dreadlocks with any hair type or texture.

Growing Dreadlocks with Braids
Braids are a pretty easy method to use for those starting their dreadlocks on their own. This is one of the best methods for dreadlocking extremely soft, loosely coiled hair. For those with relaxed or naturally straight (caucasoid), braiding is also a good alternative.

Braids will develop frizzies quicker than some methods but after about six months, these hairs can be palm-rolled to give the braid a dreadlocked appearance. For those requiring less maintenance, braids are particularly advantageous because they do not become undone as easily as some other methods and can be shampoo'd a little more frequently.

With braids, part the hair in sections that are the size you want your dreadlocks to be. You don't need to break out the ruler, but if you want thin dreadlocks make sure the braids are parted small, medium parts for thicker dreadlocks, and so on.

braids hair style

Note: Making lock sections too small could lead to breakage in the future!

Breakage occurs because as dreadlocks mature, the weight of the hair will cause it to thin out at the root. So although thin dreadlocks are pretty, don't go overboard. Aim for dreadlocks that are no smaller than the size of a drinking straw.  If you want extremely thin dreadlocks, consider the Sisterlocks or Brotherlocks methods.

You can begin with either wet or dry hair. If you start with wet hair use a hooded dryer on a medium setting to allow the braids to set. After the hair dries, you may spray your scalp with natural oil for moisture if desired. Avoid using too much oil or too heavy of an oil/pomade as they will be difficult to remove from your dreadlocks.

As always, consult a professional before you attempt any style.

Growing Dreadlocks with Comb-Coils
Comb-coils are a natural style in themselves but when left alone, they can form beautiful dreadlocks.

How-to Create Comb-Coils
First decide how you wish the sections to appear.  Traditionally, a box-grid pattern is the way to go (as seen in the picture).  If you want to jazz your locks up a bit, try parting the sections in ovals, diamonds or zig-zags.  Keep in mind, locks, like braids will generally retain the section shape.  So, if you start with diamond-shaped sections, you will generally end with diamond shamped sections.

Tools Needed:  Rat-Tail Comb, naani's naturals No More Frizzies Aloe Vera Jelly and Styling Gel.



Begin with freshly shampooed and deep conditioned hair.  A quality moisturizing shampoo is best.  Although you won't be using conditioners during the first several months of your dreadlocks journey, we beleive it's best to start your hair off on a good footand keep it as moisturized as possible in the beginning.  This will lead to healthier looking and feeling mature dreadlocks. We recommend naani's naturals Sulfates-Free Shampoo for starter locks and S-Factor Herbal Deep Conditioner.

While hair is still damp, place a small amount of naani's naturals non-alcohol No More Frizzies Aloe Vera Jelly or Styling Gel on the section to be twisted.  Keep in mind, the larger the section, the larger the dreadlock.  Ideally most people aim for pencil-width size (.25 inch square or larger).  

Place the comb at the scalp and twist the hair downward and around the rat-tail end of the comb.  The idea is to form a spiral or coil using the rat-tail end of the comb as an anchor.

When you have finished winding the hair around the rat-tail end of the comb, gently slide the tail end out and voila, your first comb0coil.

Repeat until you have finished your entire head.

Maintaining Your New Starter Comb-Coil Dreadlocks
Avoid wetting/shampooing the hair during the first 3 weeks as the coils will unravel.  

During this time you may cleanse your scalp with naani's naturals All-Purpose or Witch Hazel Astrigent during this period to help alleviate dirt and odor.  The astringents, when used periodically in-between shampoos will help give your scalp a clean feeling without drying it out.  Keep in mind that astringents should be used as temporary cleansing agents not replacements for shampoos,

To use the naani's naturals astrigents, get a clean, lint-free towel or cloth wipe.  Place some of the astringent on the cloth and gently wipe in-between the parted sections.  Repeat until the cloth is no longer picking up dirt/oils.

Finally, just because you don't want your comb-coils to unravel does NOT mean that you should refrain from shampooing your hair throughout your entire lock journey.  Unraveling is an integral part of the dreadlocking process and can not be avoided.  No matter what technique you invoke, you're sure to encounter it so instead of trying to avoid unraveling altogether, use common sense.  Wait to shampoo the first 3 weeks using astringent to cleanse your scalp as needed.  Thereafter, you may shampoo every 2-3 weeks with naani's naturals Sulfates-Free Shampoo and our Essential Herbal Vinegar Rinses to properly condition baby-teenage dreadlocks as well as lift dirt and build-up.


This video shows how to do comb-coils using the rat-tail end of the comb.


This video shows how to do comb-coils using the "teeth" end of the comb...among other things.

Growing Dreadlocks with Dread Perms
Perms in and of themselves have been "dreaded" by many so why not use them to create dreadlocks?

Dread perms are traditionally used on those with naturally straight (Caucasoid) hair. With this method the objective is to change the texture of the hair so that it's better able to hold a twist.

A stylist deliberately over-processes the hair and sets it on small rods. The resulting curly textured hair is usually twisted, a holding agent is added, then the hair is retwisted and backcombed. Rubber bands are used to secure the ends.

At least four to six inches of hair is needed for this method.  There are a growing number of salons that are adding this technique to their repertoire.  So before you go out and buy a home perm, see if you can locate professional services in your area.


As always, consult a professional before you attempt any style.

Photo courtesy of German based salon http://www.seienstyle.net/


Growing Dreadlocks with Finger Twists
Finger Twists require little to no technique and resemble comb-coils on short hair when completed.  Finger twists are one of the easiest methods to use on short, natural hair. It's the method most often employed by novices because they can be relatively easy to maintain. For finger twists your hair needs to be about .5 inches long.  This method works best on tightly coiled African hair.

Part your hair in small sections depending on how thick you want your dreadlocks to be. It's suggested that your sections be no smaller than .5 inches to prevent breakage but keep in mind that generally dreadlocks thicken as they mature if you use this method.



Adding a little styling gel to the section, twist the hairs around your finger until a coil is formed. Repeat on the next parted section of hair.

Stylists suggest that you avoid washing your hair during the first 3 weeks because doing so will cause the new dreadlocks will unravel. An antiseptic cleanser can be used during this period to cleanse your scalp.

Avoid twisting your hair when it's dry. Many new lockers make the mistake of playing with their hair during the early stages by twisting and retwisting their new dreadlocks. Doing so only encourages breakage and will eventually lead to thinner dreadlocks.

If you have a tendency to dry-twist your hair, one of our very own naaniMODELS (daezhavoo) suggests keeping small spritz bottles filled with water in your purse, desk drawer, next to your favorite chair.  If you ever get the need to twist your dry dreadlocks, spritz them with water to help prevent breakage.

Growing Dreadlocks with the Interlock or Latch-Hook Tools
Latch-hooking has become a popular maintenance method for dreadlocks.  Latch-hooking, once mastered, is an easy way to maintain most dreadlock'd styles.  Unfortunately the process by which to use the tool is usually attempted by most people via word-of-mouth instruction resulting in improper use of the tool and technique.

In the words of the Latch-Hook Instructional E-Book...
  • You no longer have to worry about your freshly retightened roots coming undone
  • If you are actively working out or swimming, you won't have to worry about getting your hair wet in the pool or shower.
  • Go ahead...rinse your scalp after that vigorous work-out!
The latch-hooking technique has become very popular. To learn how to do this technique Buy "How to Retighten Your Locs Using the Latchin' Technique" E-Book.

Growing Freeform or Organic Dreadlocks
Traditional dreadlocks styles are now being referred to as Freeform or organic.  The most well known example of freeform dreadlocks is the Reggae king himself, Bob Marley.

Freeform dreadlocks are traditionally associated with Rastafarians. This dreadlocking method tends to produce dreadlocks faster than any other method and is a "wash and go" style.

Besides shampooing, the hair is not manipulated to a great degree. Over time, your hair will matte and dreadlock.

BlackAngelPlayahs
freeform dreadlocks

Some use a "plucking" method to encourage the hairs to separate and form individual dreads.

Another method for shorter hair is after shampooing, towel dry the hair in a circular motion to encourage the hair to develop its own clusters. Overtime the clusters will matte and as they grow will form individual dreadlocks.

Freeform dreadlocks are often called "Organic" because they're considered more holistic and truer representatives of the dreadlock tradition.  These types of dreadlocks tend to get a bad rap in and outside the dreadlock'd community due to the fact that they generally lead to uneven or flattened dreads.  As a result, another name for freeform is the "neglect method."

Now don't get me wrong, I've seen organic dreadlocks that are uniform and even.  Although freeforming is a minimalist method, there are those who do engage in some sort of twisting either to help encourage a new dread to take place or to strengthen areas that may have weakened.

Typically what happens with freeform dreadlocks is crawling.  Crawling is a process by which individual dreadlocks begin sharing a root bed.  Over time, two or more dreadlocks connect at the root leading to spider dreads/two-headed dragons/treeing/y-locks (different names for the same thing).  Spider dreads are those which if you follow them down start as one lock but begin to branch off into two or more individual ones.

Depending on how they're cared for, the spider dreadlocks can either remain as is or over time, the tree'd ends may begin to adhere to one another through natural processes or when the person marries/combines them. 

When the spider dreadlocks are combined, a second process of matting begins and one, large dreadlock takes shape.  For some people, this phenomenon is encouraged.  For others, regular maintenance of your dreadlocks is necessary to prevent this natural combining process.

Finally, the issue of flapping. Flapping is the process by which dreadlocks grow flat rather than cylindrical.  Due to decreased styling manipulation, flapping is far more common with organic dreadlocks than any other method. 

In the early stages of dreadlocks, there is a tendency for hair to flatten.  When your hair begins to aggressively matte, it has far more difficulty maintaining a cylindrical shape or plumping up after it's been compressed.  So anytime that you lay on a pillow, wear a hat or engage any other activity that compresses your hair, if you do not take steps to undo the flattening (usually by palm-rolling or finger-twisting the dreadlocks), your dreadlocks will maintain the flattened appearance and once mature, they will continue to grow this way...flat.

bob marley dreadlocks
Bob Marley's Freeform Dreadlocks

Growing Dreadlocks with Palm-Rolls
Palm-rolls, like finger twists, is the traditional method used to start manicured dreadlocks.  This method requires the most maintenance. Palm-rolls come undone fairly easily when washed. Despite its disadvantages, they are the best way to achieve uniform dreadlocks.

At least three inches of hair is needed to achieve palm-rolls because your hair must be able to fit into the palms of your hands.  Although all hair types are receptive to palm-rolls, medium to coarse hair grades are better served by this method.  Such hair types will hold their shape better and reduce the amount of necessary maintenance.

Begin by placing a small amount of naani's naturals  Alcohol Free No More Frizzies Aloe Vera Jelly or Styling Gel on the section to be rolled. Place the sectioned hair between the palms of your hands.  Using one hand, rub it against the palm of the other in ONE SMOOTH MOTION.  Twist the ends of the new lock to help secure the roll.  Place a metal clip on the palm-roll and allow it to set.

If you're starting with longer hair, four or more inches, and are maintaining your dreadlocks at home, you may want to use an alternative method. Although palm-rolls are ideal in some situations, they are very difficult to maintain on longer, softer types of hair.  

As always, consult a professional before you attempt any style.

Growing Dreadlocks with Sisterlocks or Brotherlocks
For more information on this style, visit the official website - Sisterlocks.com.

Sisterlocks is a method that has been developed for use on natural or relaxed hair. This is a trademarked method and lawfully, should only be attempted by a trained/certified consultant.

Sisterlocks can be very small in diameter and are therefore more pliable and flexible than most other loc style and can be styled in the same manner as straight hair.

During the first months you are required to go to a certified consultant for regular retightenings. On average you can expect to have to go every 4-6 weeks. Your hair texture, growth rate and the way you maintain your Sisterlocks in between sessions will determine when your schedule can be extended. Retightening sessions last about 4-6 hours.

sisterlocks

On the upside, you can learn how to retighten your Sisterlocks on your own.  Sisterlocks Headquarters offers certification classes and there you will be taught everything you need to know in order to maintain the style at home.

You can obtain more information on Sisterlocks by visiting them on the web.  

Be sure to visit the official site maintained by the technique inventor, Dr. Cornwell for recent information, products and services.

As always, consult a professional before you attempt any style.

Growing Dreadlocks with Two-Strand Twists
A very popular natural hair style has made it's way into dreadlocks formation.  Two-strand twists are a good way to start dreadlocks on regular and softer hair types. Over time, hair that frays from the two-strand twists can be palm-rolled back into the twist which will eventually give it a dreadlocked appearance.  

Two-strands are one of the top choices for those wishing to lock their hair.  They offer ease of maintenance and can be attempted without the aid of a professional stylist.

At least two inches of hair is needed for this technique. Two-strand twists are similar to braiding except two strands of hair are twisted together as opposed to three.

deecoily two-strands


Growing Dreadlocks with Yarn
Whether locking or looking for an inexpensive hair style, yarn locks are here to save the day.  Yarn dreadlocks are a simple and easy way to begin permanent ones. They offer a styling alternative to those who are afraid of the insecurity that normal locking methods provide.  

If you're going to use yarn locks as a precursor to your mature ones, leave your hair wrapped for a minimum of three to four months to be sure that the hair has begun to loc.

To check your progress, cut the yarn off one section of hair and examine it. Rewrap the exposed section. As your hair grows, you can wrap the new growth in a similar manner to help encourage dreadlocking.

angees yarn locs

To know when it's time to take your yarn locks completely, look for the signs in the right hand column.

The character Maxine Shaw on TV's "Living Single," often wore the yarn locks style.

What You'll Need to Create Yarn Dreadlocks
When purchasing a yarn/thread, choose a color that is close to that of your own hair. If you're trying to decide between yarn/thread, there are advantages to both.

Thread will produce very finely wrapped hair, whereas yarn will produce a look similar to dreadlocks. The size of your yarn/thread dreadlocks will depend on how much of the material you use.

The amount of thread used on each section will produce a finer or thicker look, but try to find an extremely thick thread similar to those used in hair weaving or for sewing upholstery.

When looking for yarn, regular knitting or crocheting yarns should do the trick, but rough up the yarn a little to make sure that it doesn't shed easily.  By doing so you'll insure that you won't have as many fuzzies.

angees yarn locs

How to Make Yarn Dreadlocks
Wash and blow/towel dry your hair. If you're wrapping to loc, use a clarifying shampoo and do not condition your hair.

Part the hair in sections that are no smaller than .5 an inch and palmroll, two-strand twist or braid your hair into neat sections. Your parts can be in the shape of circles, squares, diamonds, etc. so be creative. If you are wrapping to loc, be particularly careful with the size of your partings.  The size of your part will determine the overall size of your dreadlocks.

If you are yarn wrapping to permanently dreadlock your hair, it's suggested that you either palm-roll, braid or two-strand twist your hair to achieve the best results because the wrapping will keep your new dreadlocks firmly in place.

Once you've finished braiding or twisting your hair, unwrap a long piece of yarn, but don't cut it.

Holding the section of the parted hair at the root with one hand, use the other to lay the yarn at the base of the scalp.

Holding the yarn in place with your finger begin liberally wrapping the yarn around the section as carefully and as neatly as possible. Make sure none of your hair shows through.

Be patient because practice makes perfect and if you really aren't sure of what you're doing, find a friend to help you out during this process.

As you work the yarn down the section, try not to hold the hair straight out and downward to avoid bunching.  When you reach the end of the section, cut the yarn so that 8-10 inches of the material remains. Use the excess to wrap the ends of the hair.

When it's time to secure the yarn lock, think needle and thread.

Create a small loop at the end of the yarn.

Make several knots by pulling the end of the yarn through the loop.

Cut off any excess yarn.

Repeat on next section.

06-22-04 "I've had dread locks twice now, both times I used dread wax. They came out pretty bad, and a person told me that putting yarn around them might be better. I was wondering exactly what I do.. Do I put get in them, and wrap them? Gel and back-combing then wrapping them?!  Wax again? Or just leave them completely alone then wrapping them? I would love, and truly appreciate a reply."
--Thanks - Kate, Colorado

Greetings Kate,
I'm sorry to hear that you're having so much trouble getting your dreadlocks together.  The good thing about yarn locks is that they're great for those who wish to dreadlock OR those who've been dreadlock'd for years.

Many people who have mature dreadlocks occasionally use yarn to give their hair a rest from manipulation and styling.  They're great during summer months or for those who engage in fitness activities or swimming.

Hopefully the above instructions have helped you better understand how to create yarn locks.  Overall, the process is similar to growing dreadlocks using "traditional" means except the yarn acts as a protective barrier that keeps the hair from unraveling.

dreadlocks butter not dread waxDepending on your hair type, you would start your locks using the method that is best for you.  So if you have naturally straight hair, back-combing maybe the best option.  For those with loosely coiled hair, consider two-strands.  For those with medium curl to kinky textures, consider two-strands, braids, palms, coils...

As far as product usage with yarn locks, think like a minimalist.  If you've ever had braid extensions, you'd pretty much care for your yarn locs in the same way.  So no, you would not engage in placing all that "dreadlocks wax" onto your hair.  You wouldn't/shouldn't do that even if you didn't wear yarn locks.

Oh by the way, avoid products termed "dreadlocks wax."  Such products contain far too much beeswax or other waxes.  They're generally extremely hard in texture and will build-up in locks.  Opt for dreadlocks butters instead.  Where butters may also contain beeswax, it usually is not the first ingredient.  The consistency of dreadlocks butters is far smoother and will not build up in hair.  We recommend naani's naturals Lock'd Down Dreadlocks Butter.

angees yarn locs

How to Use Yarn Locks to Create Permanent Dreadlocks

Yarn Locks & Baby Dreadlocks
Yarn dreadlocks are a simple and easy way to begin permanent ones. They offer a styling alternative to those who are afraid of the insecurity that normal locking methods provide.  If you're going to use yarn dreadlocks as a precursor to your mature ones, leave your hair wrapped for a minimum of three to four months to be sure that the hair has begun to loc.

To check your progress, cut the yarn off one section of hair and examine it. Rewrap the exposed section. As your hair grows, you can wrap the new growth in a similar manner to help encourage dreadlocking.

To know when it's time to take your yarn dreadlocks completely, look for the for the signs in the right hand column.

Yarn Locks & Mature Dreadlocks
One of the major complaints from those with mature dreadlocks is how quickly, easily their hair becomes frizzy after working out or swimming.  Well if you're a whiner like me, consider yarn locks as a temporary styling option.

Yarn dreadlocks are a great way to help maintain your dreadlocks and give your hair and hands a much needed break.  So if you have thinning or are concerned about breakage, this is an inexpensive way to "repair" them while using a hands-off approach.

Lost a lock?  If you've ever had a fallen dreadlock (broken or otherwise) and wish to reattach them, yarn locks are a great way to camouflage the breakage while offering a secure structure under which the newly reattached dreadlocks have the opportunity to adhere and thrive.

Summer heat got you sizzling?  Afraid to go for a swim for fear your dreadlocks will look a hot mess?  Ease the tension and beat the heat with yarn locks.


You Know You're Lock'd When...
1. The unwrapped piece of hair feels firm and dense

2. The hair appears unlikely to unravel when washed

3. It's virtually impossible to pick/comb apart

How to Maintain and Keep Yarn Locks Neat and Clean
Remember, keeping the yarn dreadlocks in too long will encourage the hair to dreadlock. Therefore if you're not trying to get dreads, it's best to redo your yarn dreadlocks within 6-8 weeks.

Those wishing to loc their hair should avoid conditioners because they tend to retard dreadlocking in the early stages and may cause the yarn locks to slip.

Using a mild shampoo, gently wash your yarn locks while focusing primarily on the scalp.  Your goal is to lift dirt, dandruff and oils from the scalp area, not to disturb the yarn locks unnecessarily.  Rinse thoroughly and gently towel/blow dry your hair.  Be sure to use a lint-free towel.

Light oils such as naani's naturals Moisturizing Hair & Body Mist or Spritz-It Ultralite Hair Oyle can be used to address dry scalp issues.  Be sure to focus the oil on the scalp area rather than the yarn locks.