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Beeswax

Beeswax
I know you've heard a lot about products that should be avoided when you have Dreadlocks and much of the information is confusing.  In this section, we'll do our best to explain the No-No's in a way that cuts through the confusion.  Let's get started...

SHEA BUTTER:  I love shea.  It's great for use on dry skin which some people believe makes it great for use on dry scalp.  The problem with shea is that like all butters, it has a degree of waxiness to it.  Sometimes we confuse waxiness with oilness and it's not the same thing.  Shea is actually dull and has little luster.

This waxy property rates it as a C+ in terms of holding dreadlocks but overall it results in a Grade of F over the long term as shea is difficult to shampoo out and builds up on hair.  Not to mention, it doesn't shine so twisting into your dreadlocks may hold them but don't expect them to look shiny and healthy.

Most people who use shea butter, particularily, the raw (yellow variety), develop splotchy, white patches that resemble clumps of lint throughout their dreadlocks.  Because dreadlocks are tightly matted, removing shea is cumbersome and thus you should AVOID using shea butter stand alone. 



Thw abovephoto of naaniMODEL SOULSISTA is a pretty good example of how shea butter can accumulate in dreadlocks.  Although difficult to see, the white specs you see in her hair are mainly the result of raw shea butter Build-up.

With that said, this does NOT mean that you should avoid products that contain shea butter.  It is indeed excellent at alleviating dry skin.  What this does mean is that if it is used in too high a concentration,  you increase your chances of getting negative results.  A product that contains shea should be formulated for use on the scalp primarily as well as the hair.  Meaning, it should be light and creamy.  Think about it, If the main objective of shea butter is to help dry skin (scalp), then you want it on your scalp to do its work.  Because it's waxy NOT oily, it doesn't add sheen to the hair on its own.  Sheen in products containing shea butter is often the result of other oils and butters.

BEESWAX:  Like shea, beeswax is waxy...hence the name.  Like shea, if beeswax is used in too high a concentration, it can create build-up.  Like shea, beeswax offers excellent

hold.  Like shea, beeswax does not has its own degree of luster.  So what does beeswax do?

It holds.  It's an excellent adherent.  When beeswax is used in dreadlocks products, it offers stability.  It increases the longevity that your twists will remain.  Unfortunately, many manufacturers overuse beeswax and as a result, like shea, you get far too much of the waxiness which results in build-up.

This is not to say that beeswax shouldn't be used in dreadlocks products.  In fact, it's excellent when formulated in the right proportion.  Which is also why naani's naturals Lock'd Down Dreadlocks Butter is our all-time best-selling product.  Customers and clients sware by it not only because it works, but also because it produces no build-up...and it contains beeswax.

In the end, if a product has a proper concentration of ingredient then you'll be aware that something's on your hair (it will shine better, hold better, etc) but it won't weigh it down or feel thick.  If it contains oils/waxes, it will have a relatively low melting point so that when it's time to remove it, shampoo and warm-hot water is all that's needed.

Whenever I talk to customers/clients and try to explain away the negative conceptions regarding beeswax, I use this analogy...

Have you ever gotten up in the morning, took a shower, lotioned yourself down only to found that a few hours later your legs, elbows and hands are ashy again?  Wonder why?

Well your lotion was probably water-based.  The water in it evaporated and you were left with ashy skin.  So in a sense, you wasted your time and money on the product as further applications will yield the same result...the water will evaporate and you'll be ashy again.  The best way to remedy ashy skin is to use products that are more oil-wax based.  Oils-waxes will tend to stay with your skin a lot longer and seal in moisture rather than allowing it to evaporate and dry out our skin.

That's pretty much the idea of using beeswax in products.  The waxy elements of such products means they will "hold" a style far longer than a water-based product.  And because they hold longer, you technically end up using a lot less.  So where you may use a water/glycerin based lock gel every few days (the water in the product evaporates decreasing it's effectiveness) an oil-waxed based product will need less applications as it will seal in your hair's moisture (good for growth), maintain sheen and preserve your style.

But again, you can have too much of a good thing.  Back to the lotion example.  When comparing products containing beeswax it's sometimes like comparing Vaseline vs. Eucerin (a high-quality lotion recommended by dermatologists). 

Both of these products will keep you lubricated.  Both require very few reapplications.  The only difference is, at the end of the day, the Eucerin can be washed away.  It can be used on all body parts (including your face because it won't clog pores).

The Vaseline however will rub off on your clothes, chairs, anything you've come in contact with.  Use it on your face and not only will you clog your pores but a shine at that Level is never regarded as healthy or cute.

So when you're thinking about beeswax in product, try looking at it in these terms:  You want Eucerin quality vs. Vaseline.  They both have the same objective but clearly one is better than the other at achieving its aims.

Article Series

This article is part 1 of a 2 part series. Other articles in this series are shown below:
  1. Beeswax
  2. Beeswax Extended

Comments

Comment #1 (Posted by Angel) Rating: ratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfullratingfull Unrated
over the past 19 months, I have stayed away from products that contained beeswax. For all the reasons you mentioned about build up. Thanks for helping me understand how a little is actually helpful. :)


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